="s://loskutkova. ru/archives/13659 ">The construction of the pattern of a bra with a square cup. Part 2. Building a bra cup.

admin 2019-10-12 at 12:01 pm

Continuation of the construction of a bra pattern without frames. ="s://loskutkova. ru/archives/13580" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Start here.

In the basic pattern, the front and side tuck are equal.

Example: P out = 9 cm.

We postpone it on the side seam - 4.5 cm up and 4.5 cm down.

And in the middle line of the front, I also put 4.5 cm up and 4.5 cm down.

We connect the obtained points with the center of the chest (Cg) point with not very bright auxiliary straight lines. These are not the contours of patterns yet, so you don't need to outline them in bold yet.

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Further: I divide each new line into three parts. In my example, this is a segment of 4.1 cm. And from these thirds I set the perpendiculars to the side of the tuck solution, small, short, 5 to 9 millimeters.

If you have a very large horizontal arc size (for example, G arc = 30 cm), then this perpendicular will be 8-9 mm. And in very large sizes it can even be 1.5 cm. And the smaller the size, the smaller this perpendicular.

In my construction G arc = 22 cm.

And imagine a large cup, wider. Then her tuck length will be longer and this perpendicular will also be longer.

I calculated this dependence, it gives a good basic bulge in any size. And calculated by the formula:

1/20 of the length of the side of the tuck - this is the length of the perpendicular.

The larger the size, the longer the tuck length and the larger this perpendicular.

I have 124 mm tuck side length. I divide it by 20, it turned out 6.2 mm. And I postpone exactly the same perpendicular - 6.2 mm.

And on the front tuck, the perpendicular will be less, because the length of the side of the tuck is less.

And here I take the length of the tuck, not to the middle of the front, but to the measure of Gdug. I measure the length of the front tuck side = 113 mm.

113 mm / 20 = 5.6 mm. But I'll take 5 mm. And the tuck length of 11 cm divided by 3, it will be 3.7 cm.

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That's all, I got auxiliary points for arranging the correct bulge in the cups. If, for example, you do not make out these bulges, but leave the pattern with straight sides, then it will turn out - as if it had been turned out of the newspaper - sharp.

If the bulges are measured more than necessary, then the cup will turn out with vertical folds - creases. There will be a feeling that the cup is large, although all the side points will be in place. That is, you formed too much bulge.

Next: now we will need to take the pattern for drawing. Take any piece you find in stores. They are sold a lot of types. Any pattern has a smooth line and is steeper. Here is the one that is steeper, you need to direct closer to the point the center of the chest (Tsg). Because, the cup becomes smoother towards the side, and the most convex part of it is always in the center.

I find where my pattern intersects with the point Tsg, the point of the perpendicular and the point of the end of the tuck solution. I move it until all three points lie on the pattern. I draw this pattern line first on the bottom details of the cup. And I repeat the upper line.

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Please note: in front of me, the tuck line does not end at the mid-front line, but at the horizontal arc line (Gdugi). Then we will work a little more with this line, I will explain what it is for.

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So, we designed the sides of the tucks with smooth lines. And as you already understood - according to the laws of geometry - the new convex lines of the sides of the tucks are longer in length than the original sides of the tucks.

For example, the measure of the front radius (Pr), which should be equal to 10.5 cm, comes from the measure Г, the arc to the right. But horizontally this is a line, everything is correct, 10.5 cm. And along the new - convex - line of the tuck, it went to our side and lengthened, it became the other side of the triangle.

We need to fix this, because the measurement of the front radius (Pr) and the lateral radius (Br) shows the size of the cup. If we leave her like that, then this cup will be great.

Therefore, Pr = 10.5 cm is measured along a new convex line of the front tuck. This is convenient to do with a centimeter tape, putting it on the edge. And look, where the measurement ends: 8 mm closer to Tsg. We put this mark for now.

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We do the same on the side of the cup. Here we take the measure Br = 11.5 cm. And we postpone it along the convex part of the tuck. This measurement "went" by 11 mm, as we see on the right side of the drawing:

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So, we built the front and side tucks of the bra.

And now we will need to build the side seams, the neckline and the top of the cup. But I want to close the bottom tuck first. That is, we have a cup with a T-seam - this is the base cup. And the T-shaped seam is needed especially in medium and large sizes. You can leave the pattern without the lower tuck, but then the cup, if you look at it from the side, will be flat. And with the lower tuck, the cup will have a rounded, beautiful shape.

The basic tuck is built according to different formulas:

PH vy = Gduga / 10 - the cup will turn out flatter.

PH vy = Gduga / 20. - the cup will be sharper.

But these formulas are basic. And not all sizes are suitable. It is necessary to select or build the lower tuck by the standards - which is preferable in accurate design.

Why are the formulas different? Because, the preferences for the shape of the bra are also different for everyone.

One of my readers, Eva, wrote me a beautiful description of the effect of using different cup shapes -

“Well, at the expense of being rounder or sharper - it’s even a matter of convenience. When I did the probe and the chest was pressed more tightly, I felt that my chest was light as a cloud (note E. F. - in the case of a lower tuck with a small solution) and even the pressure on my shoulders ceased to feel. It has become so easy for me.

And in the finished bra, the lower girdle is reduced and it feels like something voluminous infringes on the bottom and is not so comfortable....?? ”(note E. F. - when the bra presses under the cup - this means the lower tuck is too large)

Therefore - the depth of the solution of the lower tuck strongly affects the shape of the cup of the bra in the finished form.

About the shape of the cups I have recorded a video. It more clearly shows what errors occur in the fit of the bra and how best to determine the solution of the lower tuck:

[embed]s://www. youtube. com/watch? v=kV34QZtJCSU[/embed]So: an example - Рн. el = 22 cm / 10 = 2.2 cm. We divide the line of the lower radius into three parts and from the upper third we begin the deflection of the tuck itself.

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You can build it in various ways. But I show the calculation method. Look, the tuck solution is postponed from the vertical center of the chest left and right. It turns out - 2.2 cm, it needs to be divided in half to lay the tuck solution to the left and right.

And now we take the pattern and connect the point Tsg with the auxiliary point, called 1/3, and the point of the tuck solution.

Now close the lower contour of the lower part of the cup. Everything is very simple here. Look, if the measurements are correct and if everything is correctly taken from the figure and is built on the drawing, then in the end some measurements do not even need to be taken, they should converge in the drawing. But this is not a fact. It is not necessary that they converge.

Now I will tell you how to build the length of the lower seam of the cup correctly. It can be removed from the figure - as an individual measure.

If you do this, then simply adjust the length of this line to your individual. But if you don’t want to do this, then you can do this: perpendicular to the auxiliary line of the tuck, where the end of the measurement is the lateral radius Br, we postpone it until it intersects with the base line of the drawing grid. I draw this perpendicular on the side and in front.

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It is necessary to measure the length of the lower seam. What is it for?

Look, this line has a length of 16.2 cm. We subtract from it a solution of tucking pH. Tuck - then our figure closes. 16.2 cm - 2.2 cm = 14 cm is the length of the seam under the cup.

We have not yet taken into account the distance between the breasts.

I broke the sequence a bit. I drew a perpendicular in front early. Well, I apologize for making you admire your mistake, but I'll show you how to fix it.

Look, when I corrected the front radius measurement on the auxiliary line, I postponed the front radius measurement (Pr) and did not add a distance between the mammary glands of 1 cm.

Correct. Add this 1cm.

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What do we get? In the figure at points 1 and 3, the cup will be connected. That is, it will be one point. Now look at the pattern line of the tuck. ? cups will be convex, you need to form a place for the chest. And in the area of??points 2 and 3 (in the figure, the line is highlighted in color), the line must be made concave. So you will create the best effect of fitting the bra between the mammary glands.

Now we draw the perpendicular not to the auxiliary line, but to the new line of the contour of the cup, which was drawn concave. Focus on this short section.

After you correct the error, re-measure the length of the lower seam.

According to new measurements, this is 16.8 cm-2.2 cm (pH. out) = 14.6 cm.

That's it, I built the bottom part of the cup. Now close it. I draw a clear outline to make it visible.

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Here, a small concavity can be formed at the bottom piece, and literally barely noticeable to the eye along the bottom cut. And you can do it right.

That's it, I designed the front-lower and lower-lateral part of the cup.

And now, when we’ve finished building, in Merck the horizontal arc (Gduga) is the length of the lower cut of the cup (we didn’t take an individual measurement here, although I also have it in the exact construction method. And if you take it off, then the pattern is closer to the individual and its construction will be more accurate).

How to check whether the construction is correct or not? Nevertheless, I give a calculation - a standard way. Look, it’s very important: the perpendicular, which was drawn along the side, affects the point of intersection with the lower cut. She can come to the left or right. Therefore, I found exactly the calculated method of constructing a measure of the horizontal diameter of these perpendiculars. It can be built from the base tuck, but can be built from a convex line.

Why am I explaining this? I want to prove that the calculation method also has the right to be. But he serves for other purposes. What are our goals in the design of underwear? Sew to order, sew yourself. Sewing on order is more difficult, not everyone needs it. Therefore, why should I bother with those who want to sew some subtleties for themselves that need to be studied for several weeks, and even checked?

Therefore, I shared these two directions when I realized that not everyone needs an accurate construction, with which you need to lay a lot in your head. And not everyone needs simplified construction. Someone needs ready-made patterns and in general design is not needed. Therefore, now I am developing such different directions.

So. We found the point of intersection of the perpendicular on the side with the lower cut. And we found the intersection point with the perpendicular in front with the lower cut in a different way. We have here a measure of the front radius (D) + 1cm for the distance between the cups, between the mammary glands. We built a middle seam. In the same way, I built this middle seam perpendicular to the intersection with the bottom seam of the cup, but I did not build this perpendicular from the baseline, but from the line that I already have is the outline of the cup.

And now I need to check whether this coincided correctly with my individual figure.

Measure the base of the cup. What is this measurement and how to take it? If we took a horizontal arc along the surface of the chest, then the horizontal diameter is already an individual measure, it is taken as a projection absolutely between the same verticals, but as a shadow. It can be measured with a caliper. But you can do as tailors do. Everything is simpler for us, we lower these verticals down under the chest and measure this distance. Here it is our indicative measure by which we can calculate an individual tuck solution, and which greatly affects a good fit in another design, with an oval cup. Here is a slightly different question.

Look, this measure is a horizontal diameter of 22 cm, usually 13.5-14 cm. the horizontal arc was measured from the anterior base of the mammary gland horizontally to the lateral. And the distance between the mammary glands, we do not take into account the horizontal arc. That's exactly the same in the horizontal radius, we do not take into account this distance.

Since in my pattern the left line is the middle of the front of the bra, it should turn out 1cm more than the basic measure of horizontal diameter. So 13.5 - 14 cm + 1 cm = 14.5 - 15 cm.

And the length of the lower seam measured on our pattern is 14.6 cm. This proves that this calculation method can be used.

So, with the bottom cups sorted out. Let's move on to building the top of the cup.

Look, at the front tuck, the lower side and the upper should be the same length. On the lower side, the front radius (Pr) and the distance between the mammary glands are marked 1 cm. On the upper side, I have already set the front radius (Pr), now we are completing 1 cm. This will be the point of the midline. Here we also do not forget to form the line so that it fits more smoothly, as in the lower part (first? curved line, then concave).

There is no need to finish building on the side of the cup. A measure of the lateral radius (Br = 11.5 cm) we have already built. Here I lay the perpendicular up from the round seam line. This will be the side seam of the upper part of the cup. It is very easy to build. For small sizes it is 3 cm, for medium - 3.5 cm, for large - 4.5 cm. What sizes are included in these categories?

This is in the method of Antipova (a textbook on the design of corset underwear). Small sizes - up to 44, i. e. 40, 42, 44. The average sizes are from 46 to 54. And everything that is more than 54 is the big sizes in this classification.

I have Gdug here = 22 cm. This is most likely a small size, so I postpone 3 cm. This is the side seam of the upper part of the cup.

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Now we make the front seam. This is the depth of the neckline. Depth of neckline will depend on the length of the seam that we will lay along the middle tear of the upper part of the cup. We have a horizontal seam. You can’t make a cutout in this design below this seam. But it can be deepened after modeling the cup, when we can move the seam.

Now my task is to show you the construction of the basic pattern.

From the smoothly concave section we lay the perpendicular 1.5 cm (this is the base value for all sizes). This line is called the neckline of the cup. We put a small mark where this line ends.

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And then the construction of the cup neckline, armholes, straps attachment points will go.

The basic construction of the corner of the cup. From the line, the center of the chest to the right is postponed 2.5-3-3.5 cm. As you understand, this is again a gradation for small, medium and large sizes. But here it goes the other way around, the larger the value, the smaller the size. I have a small size Gdug = 22 cm, so I postpone 3.5 cm. This will be the corner point under the strap. We connect this point with the upper point of the side seam of the upper part of the cup and with the upper point of the neckline depth.

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All! We built a basic pattern of the upper part of the cup.

This is what a bra cup looks like, built according to the “Square Cup” pattern:

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="s://loskutkova. ru/archives/13580" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Start of construction, as well as photos, what measurements are needed here.

Was with you ="s://loskutkova. ru" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Elena Fomenkova.

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