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Japanese patches part 2 - darn (traffic) / About the style / SECOND STREET

- апреля 24, 2020




In the second part I will share findings about the types of darn, for those who want to repeat this incomparable texture for themselves.

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The most common look is the small handmade sashiko stitch. Sashiko means "small punches", the verb Sasu - "pierce." The stitch was used to seal the fabric and join the flaps, this gave strength and beauty. The color of the thread varies from white to dark blue.







The stitches are laid right through, they should be the same in size and passes. The basic rule is to never cross the stitches, always leave a distance at the intersections of the ornament.

The traditional needle for sashiko is quite long, about 2 inches, the width is uniform along the entire length. Twisted thread without shine. The Japanese use a special thimble made of metal or leather. It is worn in the palm of your hand right under the middle finger to push the needle through the pleated fabric.







When starting work, you need to cut the thread of such a length so that it is enough to complete a series of embroidery moving from one edge of the product to the other. Wrapping it twice around the tip of the needle, and then stretching the needle through these turns of the spiral, form a quiltusel at the end of the thread.





Then take your fabric and string it on the needle without pulling the thread. After completing an arbitrary, convenient for you number of stitches in this way, push the needle with a thimble and stretch the thread.





Pulling the thread, stretch the fabric to loosen the thread tension. Continue these operations until the end of the row, and then perform another knot, leaving some slack at the end in order to compensate for any web tension.





If your pattern requires a change of direction, then at each turn leave a small loop for the same purpose - to ease the tension.







Before starting stitches, you need to carefully review the pattern and decide on the order of actions. You need to know that usually horizontal and vertical lines are first performed (with the exception of the outer ones forming the frame), then the stitch is laid in an oblique direction and completed by the execution of the pattern frame. This procedure will save you from possible distortions.





Moving further along the broken lines from one edge to another, by analogy with what is described above, we complete the opposite corner of the whole scheme. Finally, complete the frame. It can be performed moving around the perimeter, the main thing is to ensure that the thread ends only at the corners.

="://www. purlbee. com/embroidery-tutorials/2008/1/18/sashiko. html">Source



Examples of patterns:





Amimon - fishing net, promises a good catch.





Yabane - arrows, symbol of a warrior.





Musubi Kikko - tortoise shell, lucky number three (triangle and hexagon) for longevity.

="://www. liveinternet. ru/users/4124915/post270075282/">Here scans of a book with sashiko patterns.





Kogin is the next type of embroidery that was used only on the Tsugaru peninsula located on the northern part of Honshu Island. The poorest and most frozen site in Japan. Apparently, therefore, cheap and rolled fabric was decorated with such a complex pattern. The fabric was taken indigo, and the weave was uneven to get an elongated rhombus.







Hishizashi is a kind of kogin, but the fabric was taken lighter and very often three or more thread colors were used in one embroidery. Born in Nanbu in Aomori Prefecture.

="://www. mrxstitch. com/sashiko-stitching/">Source





="://lagrenouille. artblog. fr/1042415/Broderie-traditionnelle-japonaise-3-Hishizashi/">Here You can see the varieties of patterns of these two techniques.



For a more straightforward darn (assembly) of clothes using the Boro technique, I found such methods:









="s://www. flickr. com/photos/sweetiepiepress/4296400734/in/photostream/">Source













="://hannahlamb. blogspot. co. uk/search/label/darning">Source



They can no longer be attributed to the truly traditional ones, but they will give an excellent texture.







To facilitate the task, you can use patches made of unbleached fabric with a cross-stitch pattern - the most common kind of darning after parallel lines.







Such a darn can strengthen the knees and elbows.







The sweater can be patched with a fabric with traditional patterns or with a darn-like texture.





Disheveled cuffs are also no reason to throw a thing.















In the third part I will make a selection of street style and designer clothes in the style of "borough".



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