Lana-web. gillana > Simulated and sew yourself > How to make an accurate pattern-based After you have correctly measured the basic measurements, you can begin to create patterns-the basics 44-58 sizes for dresses, blouses or jacket. Using this method I have been using for years 18, its main advantages – the pattern is constructed easily, quickly, logically, accurately. I have enough 7 minutes, along with the calculations. The fitting is rather small adjustments of volume and length. The principle one, only difference is the allowances for free customized fit. For the pattern-the basics of dresses and blouses is 6 cm, jacket with fitted silhouette – 8cm for the coat, depending on the style, 10-16. So to explain better in a specific example, then learn to build a pattern-based we for blouses or dresses 48 size. About how to more accurately build the pattern for full figures, sizes 52-58, in the following article. Our pattern will be up to the hips. For dress, straight silhouette her enough to continue to the desired length. The basic measurements. OG – 96ОТ – 75OB – 101Мерки back. DST (back length to waist) – 41Шсп (width back) – 35Ш shoulder – 12Мерки front. DPT (front length to waist)– 43,5 VG (breast height) and 26.5 CG (center of chest) – 18Вгк (breast height oblique) – 24ШГ (chest width) – 37Гп (depth armhole) – 20Необходимые preliminary calculations. The peculiarity of this method is that the basic measure in constructing patterns-basics – chest. Through the point of the front OG be the control line, and all other measurements are postponed on the basis of calculations relative to this line. Raschityvaet OG patterns-the basics: Merke OG add to the allowance for loose fit. In our example, 6 cm and Then divide in half. OG = 96 + 6 = 102 : 2 = 51 : 2 = 25,5 According to the rules of construction of the pattern – bases, and in order to ensure that the product looked nice on the shape pattern of the front should be wider than the pattern of the back. Therefore, the obtained measure of 25.5 for the front half, add 0.5, and for the back – take. Before: 25,5 + 0,5 = 26Спинка: 25,5 – 0,5 = 25Расчет tucks on the waist line. In order to determine the size of the side tucks, front and back, to the waist add 3-4 cm and divide in half: FROM = 75 + 3 = 78 : 2 = 39 Then half of the value of the EXHAUST gas with an allowance subtract the resulting figure: (96 + 6) : 2 = 51 – 39 = 12. 12 sm – the sum of all Darts. On the pattern 4: two side, tuck the front and back. 12 : 4 = 3 cm 3 cm - the size of each tuck and camber from side seam construction line. The calculation of the line of the hips. The hip adds 3-4 cm in loose fit: 101 + 3 = 104 : 2 = 52. The difference between a half ABOUT the allowances and half OG allowances delayed from the reference line. If hips are narrow, the lateral line of the front is shifted to the right, if the wide – left. In our example, the calculated half OG = 51, and the other half ABOUT = 52. The difference is only a centimeter. Therefore, when you build the front, we will need to postpone 0.5 cm to the left of the line of control, and when building the back – right.52 - 51 = 1 : 2 = 0,5 Build the net - the main lines of the pattern-base. To build the pattern on the tracing paper. If all the measurements are measured accurately, and the calculations done correctly, you will get the same beautiful and proportional to a pattern like the top collage. From point 1 (top right corner) draw vertical and horizontal lines. On the vertical line-delayed down the Accident (the length of the front to the waist). Draw a horizontal line of the waist. The hips are located at 18-22 cm below, depending on growth. On average, I'm drawing a line at a distance of 20 cm, as in building patterns of the dress or jacket and dress patterns-basics skirt. The line of the chest extends from the waist line at a distance which is calculated as follows: From measurements of the depth of the armhole (GPR) will be deducted 1.5-2 cm for dress or sleeveless top, 2-2. 5 cm for dresses with sleeve one-piece, 2.5-3 cm for jacket with fitted silhouette, 3-7 cm for a coat, depending on the style sleeve. The value of this measurements for size 48 – 19 to 23 cm, in our example – see GPR 20 = 20 – 2 = 18, see Postponing 18cm from waist line up and draw a horizontal line of the chest. The construction pattern of the front.From the top angle, from point 1, we leave it to the left and down 7.5 cm for sizes 46-48. For 50-56 – 8 see This value - half the width of the neck. To deepen or expand it in the simulation. Check point 2. From point 2 to the left, measure 9 cm on the vertical line of the grid pattern, put point 3 at a distance of 3 cm from it down 4 put a dot, connect the dots 2 and 4 is the slope of the line of the shoulder. Put on line 7 -8 cm and place dot 5. At the chest line aside from center front left 26 cm (half OG + 0.5 cm) and set point 6. Draw a vertical line to the intersection with the line of the hips. Put on the waist line point 7, and at the hip line – 8 point. Build the top of the front. From point 5 on the shoulder line lay off a distance equal to the size of a breast tuck. The value of a chest tuck for 42-60 size. The first digit of OG without allowances, the second is the value of tuck.82 – 84 cm – 6,5 см88 – 90 cm – 7,5 см95 - 96 cm – см100 8,5 cm – 9,5 см104 – 105 cm – 11 см110 – 112 cm – 12,5 см122 – 125 cm – 15 cm For size 48, point 5, continuing the line of the shoulder, put the left lapel width 8.5 cm Darts set point 9. From point 2 down put VG and put a dot in the TT. The distance to the middle line of the front – half of the distance measurements of the center of the chest (CG) with an allowance of 1 - 2 cm:CG = 18 cm(18 + 1) = 19 : 2 = 9,5 cm From this point down, draw a vertical line the center front tuck. Its width is equal, for our example, set Aside 3 cm. to 1.5 cm on both sides of the line. Connect the CG point and the points of Darts. Draw a breast tuck. Points 5 and 9 is connected to the point of TSG. Line width of the chest and shoulder. In order for them to hold and to defer the measured measurements, fold the tracing paper with the pattern as in the picture collage: both lines breast tuck should be the same. Secure the tuck with pins. Then continue the shoulder line and place the point corresponding to the measured measure: 12 cm draw the line-width of the chest: divide it, approximately, the height distance of the front to the waist (VAC) in half, and draw it 2 cm above. Postponing the measure equal to (CC+ 1) : 2 = 18. If you are not sure that the measurements of the width of the front or back sized correctly, add 2 cm for fitting trim the excess seam allowance. Shape measurement (breast height oblique) control. The slope of the shoulder are different. For shoulders you will need to hold the line of the shoulder is lower than the drawn line, in accordance with the size, Shape, and figures sport above. After I specified the width and slope of the shoulder line, the width of the chest, unfold the pattern and draw a line of openings through the front point of shoulder, width of the chest and point 6. Side tuck. The side seams of the pattern front and back must match exactly as on the curvature and length. The size of the side bust Darts, according to our calculations – 3 see set them from the control of the line from point 7 to the right. Line of the hips. For our example, according to the calculations, it is necessary to delay only 0.5 cm left from the control line. Connect all the dots on the line of the chest, waist and hips. Building patterns of the front ends. The pattern of the back. Her build is much easier. On the fold line of the pattern is delayed, from the waist up, the measure equal to the length of the back (DST) = 41 cm the same as when you build a pattern of the front, lay off the width of the neck, 7.5 cm for size 48, only the right – point 10. From the points obtained at 9 cm right and 2.5 down. Draw the line of the shoulder and delay measured by the measure of 12 cm and the depth of the neckline on the back, usually 2 – 2.5 cm From the point 10 to the left hold a smooth line of the neck backless. To build patterns for full figures, I was advised to measure additional measure the height of the back of the 7 vertebra to the waist. In principle, you can just make a more advanced line of the neck – 3 see On the chest put the calculated measure: backless OG (OG + 6) : 2) – 0.5 cm = 25 cm Swipe down the control line. Waist immediately put the size of the side tuck – 3 cm Line-width of the back. Divide the distance between the shoulder line and the EXHAUST line back in half and draw 1 cm below, closer to the line of the EXHAUST gas. In our example, Shsp = 35 cm(35 + 2) : 2 = 18.5 cm Tuck back. Divide the calculated measure EXHAUST back in half, then from the fold, put the figure minus 0.5-1 cm so the tuck looks more carefully, and the product: blouse, dress or jacket, softer contour to the back. The size of the tuck – 3 cm, Sometimes when the back is very noticeable bend, I change the size of the front and rear Darts. Front is reduced by 0.5-1 cm, and on the back increase. On the hip line to the right put the calculated value, the same as when you build a pattern of the front. In our example it is 0.5 cm draw a line of the side seam, gently zakrepiv her waist line. Tip: in order to adjust the constructed pattern-based, buy cheap meter cotton fabric – that will be enough for the main pattern, and a pattern short one-piece sleeves. Products with a Central seam on the back: dresses and jackets, easier to adjust on the fitting, they more accurately fit a shape, slim, because the total amount of "splits" on the vertical components. You can carve out the back with a Central seam – pattern will turn more precisely. In order to not change the volume at the waist, slim tuck back 1 cm, and the line of the Central seam make a smooth deflection of 1 cm Vykraivaya halves of the front pattern-bases, add allowance 2.5-3 cm through the middle, to make the fitting easier to fix volume with pins. On the right shelf fold on the wrong side and prometeia and on the left side draw or prometeia line means. During the fitting, fasten the shelves exactly on these lines. If the cut base is ready wide or narrow, adjust the volume through the side seams and Darts. In charting it is important to accurately align the notch on the waist line: front and back must not be shifted relative to each other. If the front half of product is shifted downward, are formed oblique creases from the side seam towards the bottom up. If shifted up, the creases can be either on the back or on the shelf in the chest area. If measurements are measured accurately, and the pattern-the basis is constructed correctly, the fitting will hold you quickly, without significant changes. About how to model a dress, jacket or vest using this pattern in the following articles. Simulated skirts with Drapes. To simulate and to sew any of the skirts with panniers you are using pattern-based. These skirts can be on the waistband or facing, with a smell or without it. Read more. How to build an accurate skirt pattern. Using this method you can easily, quickly and accurately build a pattern-based straight skirt 44-64 sizes. Based on the created pattern straight skirt, you can simulate any style of skirts. Read more. Simulated and sew themselves. This section of the website for those would like to learn how to make their own patterns, to simulate and to sew complex patterns dresses, jackets, skirts and pants. Read more. All articles have sitepornbase article? Share the link with your friends! Popular articles Section Createraster Health Section of the Women's club Contact information Lana-web. Yavorsky website 2012 >> Copyright © >> lana-web. ru - author's site about fashion, style, beauty, health. Copying site materials is allowed only if there is an indexed reference to the source