Lana-web. gillana > Simulated and sew for yourself How to adjust the pattern of the openings for the sleeves Master class # 17 – part 2.This master class is a continuation of the previous one, in which I showed my method of constructing one-piece sleeves, and gave examples of the finished patterns of single-joint sleeves. In the collages of this article – photo openings for dresses and jackets that correspond to the pattern of the sleeves 44 and 58 sizes. I will show on examples how to deepen armhole sewing patterns-bases in accordance with the model of the product and your size. And how to check compliance with the armholes and sleeves. How to deepen the armhole. If the armhole is small, i. e., shallow and short, you won't be able to sew in the sleeve, as it will be too much fabric for priborki. If you deepen armhole more than necessary, priborki on the top part of the sleeve will not, it will become messy, and you will be uncomfortable to raise their hands, as it will reach up the side seam. In order for the product was not skewed (back – front), and the armhole shelves and back to deepen evenly, align the two patterns so that the waist line matched. For blouses and dresses enough to deepen the armhole by 1 – 1.5 cm If you want to sew these things adjacent silhouette of a fabric with a slight Strachey effect, this would be enough. For things not of stretch fabrics, it is necessary not only to deepen the armhole, but also to expand it at the level of axilla. For dresses and blouses, it is sufficient to extend by 0.5 – 0.8 cm, then reduce the extension by zero to the waist line. On photo 1 the line of deepening and widening the openings are shown by green dotted line. For the jacket, adjacent silhouette, or dress and blouse semi-fitted or loose style, optimal would be the expansion of the openings is 0.8 – 1.3 cm Deepen the armhole in this case, 1.5 – 2 cm in order to make you comfortable, we will continue this additional line, waist line, at a distance of 0.5 cm along the side seam – the red dotted line in photo 2. In order for the sleeve, semi-fitted style, didn't pull the top shelves and the back, add 0.5 cm along the line of the front armhole of your pattern-bases, and 0.8 – 1 cm along the line of the armhole on the back is a red dotted line on photo 3. Proceed with the line extension, and the shoulder line, as shown in the same photo. This is necessary in order to preserve the measure of the height of the breast, and for added volume to the shoulders. At the end of the article – 6 of collages with measurements of finished openings 44, 46, 48, 56 and 58 sizes. Once you have made the pattern of the sleeves, cutting them out, seasoned and tried on, it is important to ensure that they meet the armhole of the pattern-base. And adjust the armhole of the back and the front, if necessary. These pictures – verification of compliance of the openings of the front and anterior half of crown sleeves. To start, align the bottom point of the armhole and the top part as shown in photo 4. At a distance of 6 – 7 cm from these points put the 2 stroke one on the top part and the armhole. Lock this position tailor's pin. Move, or "roll" the crown of the sleeve along the line of openings at 8 – 10 cm, depending on the size of photo 5. Spend another 2 stroke and fix the position of the pin, removing it from the first strokes on the photo – 6 pin visible. It will be easy to sew in the sleeve, if necessary Primorka okata, you will be only 1.5 to 2 cm seam allowance the fabric between the third bar and the upper shoulder point, the arm openings, shown with an orange arrow – photo 6. After this check, matching the armhole and sleeves, you get everything as on photo 7, 2 the control bar on the armhole of the front and the front half of the sleeve. I recommend to make a shallow, 3 mm, the notch – they will help you to sew in the sleeves correctly, symmetrically and without bias. Similarly, the compliance of the armhole of the backrest and the rear half of the sleeves. The only difference is that there is only one control bar and, respectively, 2 the notch. At a distance of approximately 11 – 12 cm from the lower points. As in this photo. Why you need to do the layout of the openings. If you have already made a model with sleeves, then you are probably faced with the fact that sleeve to sew beautifully is not easy. If there is little Primorka on the crown, the sleeve will pull the armhole. If tissue will be a lot – there will be folds on the top part. If not control nasechek, the sleeves are sewn, perhaps in different ways - pushed up or down. If you are in a perfect pattern one-piece sleeve and it fits and your comfortable feeling, and the desired volume, and the selected model, it is easier to pre-adjust the arm openings patterns than to correct errors after fitting. The layout of the openings made by the standards shown at the bottom of the collages shown in photo 8. The green dotted line is the edge of the tracing paper. As you can see, the layout is quite compact. And even for a 52 – 60 size, and for the back and front, it can be done first by tracing and then on a regular album sheet. It is you, if suitable, will be useful for any model of the dress or jacket. For example, the photo 9 shows the correction of the openings of the front pattern-bases of size 46 for dress of stretch fabric. The size of the openings in one of the lower collage. It is important that the layout of the openings, is applied to the pattern, shows that it needs only to expand and deepen to 5 mm correction of the openings of the front is shown in green dotted line. Summary of the rule. First check and adjust the sleeve pattern in your size, in accordance with the model and the density of the tissue, and then check this sleeve will fit in the layout of the armhole. In conclusion – adjust the openings of the pattern in accordance with the layout. Possible problems. First. Pattern sleeve, for example, the front half, after checking for compliance, is out of stock on priborki, i. e., the same point the center line of the top part of the sleeve and the shoulder point to the armhole. And when checking the rear half of the sleeves, on the contrary, the allowance is equal to 3 – 4.5 cm, not 1.5 to 2. To fix just move the top point of the top part of the sleeves by 1.5 – 2 cm towards the back half. So you have this aspect of the figure. Perhaps you have a little mistake in the calculations, when building the pattern sleeve, or the pattern that you photographed with a sheet of patterns of fashion magazine does not match your size or measure the circumference of the sleeve – OR. Second. For example, you did the mock-up sleeve, or just cut it from fabric articles, and, having tried, made sure that it is perfect. And matches the key strokes of dummy openings. But you use for a nest not its own individual pattern-based, and the finished pattern model out of a magazine. And the armhole shelves and back, corresponding to the sleeve do not coincide with the openings of ready-made patterns. Only one Council – to try to approximate the size of the openings of ready-made patterns to prototyping. There are many options: you can change the slope of the shoulder seam, you can make the armhole is not as deep or, on the contrary, to deepen a bit, you can make a slightly narrower pattern on the side seams from the waist up. If the total volume of products allows you to do it. Most importantly all changes – not to change the length of the side seam of the forepart and back from the waist to the armhole. Therefore, deepening or raising the armhole, always keep both patterns nearby, so that the waist line or notch that marks the waist back and front, was on the same line. Ready patterns the armholes for the sleeves. In order to have the ability to make patterns of openings that fit your size, I pointed out the basic dimensions. Start building with the two vertical lines corresponding to the top and bottom of the pattern front. The distance between them is the height of the openings, which is indicated on the collages by red lines with arrows. An example of a pattern layout of openings for sleeves size 48. Hand girth - 29 - 30 cm In most cases, for shapes with the correct posture, the height of the armhole of the backrest is always greater than the height of the armhole of the front. The more round-shouldered figure, the more this difference. In rare cases, when the girl used too to take away shoulders back, controlling posture, for "pereghibati" figures, the length of the arm openings may be the same. The inclined length of the openings marked on the collage lines blue color – control measurement, which will allow you to more accurately make a pattern. Green lines show 2 numbers for front and back that will allow you to spend the most important part of the armholes – bottom, in the form of smooth semicircles. The pattern of openings to size 44.The pattern of openings 46 size.The pattern of openings 46 of a size of a stretch fabric.The pattern of the openings 54 and 56 sizes.The pattern of the openings 58 and 60 sizes. I hope that recommendations and photos published in this article and the master class will help you cope with this difficult and responsible thing to learn how to build the howl of the individual sleeve pattern, the dummy pattern of the arm openings, and test them for perfect match. Good luck! Lana. Recommend article:Building patterns Raglan sleeves – detail and with pictures as to build an exact pattern of the skirt. This method of construction of the pattern-the basics of skirts, I use 20 years. Pattern 44 – 64 sizes was easy to do, and it is very accurate. Read more. Read dolecek properly cut out the pants and prepare for the fitting How to calculate yardage of fabric, depending on the style and size right to self-cut pants, baste the parts and prepare them for fitting. Read delicac to choose fabrics for individual possiveis the variety of fabrics, it is important to choose the one that best suits the style of the model dress, skirt, blouse or jacket you want to make. The properties of fabrics of different composition. Read deleese article sitepornbase article? Share the link with your friends! Popular articles Section Createraster Health Section of the Women's club Contact information Lana-web. Yavorsky website 2012 >> Copyright © >> lana-web. ru - author's site about fashion, style, beauty, health. Copying site materials is allowed only if there is an indexed reference to the source