Lana-web. gillana >> Simulated and sew themselves >>Accurate in kroika-the basis of size 54 – master class with totopo numerous requests from readers of my website, section "Simulated and sew yourself", I have prepared a detailed master-class with photo that will help you to build an accurate pattern-based 50 - 60 size. All measurements given for size 54, and based on them made all the calculations. But the technology is the construction of the pattern is the same for all larger sizes. You can also see the first article on building patterns 44 – 58 size. Measurements size 54 for calculations of pattern-bases. OG – 108ОТ – 93 - ON 94 – 116GP – the depth of the openings is 15.5 cm Measured from waist line to the underarm Front:DPT – front length of waist – 50ВГ – shoulder to bust – 32ЦГ – breast center – 20ШГ – chest width - 38Спинка:DST – back length to waist – 43ШС – width back – 39Шпл – shoulder width – 13 For each of these measurements will be individual. It all depends on the characteristics of the person and how well you measured these measurements. For orientation, see table of basic standards of all sizes. And an article about how to properly take measurements. Do preliminary calculations: To measure the EXHAUST adds 8 cm – 108 + 8 = 116 cm If you want to build a pattern the basis for the dress or blouse adjacent silhouette, and the pattern of the jacket, the increase in the free fit will be = 10 cm the resulting figure 116 divide in half: 116 : 2 = 58 cm in order to calculate the OG for half of patterns of the back and shelves, divide this figure in half again: 58 : 2 = 29 cm in order For the finished product looked nice on the figure, you need to make half pattern of the front is wider than half of back pattern. Usually, it is added to the resulting value is half of the front of 0.5 – 0.7 cm, Respectively, from the size of the back this figure is deducted. It's much easier and faster than to write about it. For our example: 29 + 0,5 = 29,5 – the new width of the front half of the 29 – 0,5 = 28,5 – patterns spinkeeper do the calculation tucks: TO FROM added allowance for free customized fit – 3 - 4 cm, depending on the style of the product. For the pattern-basics + 3 smot + 3 = 93 + 3 = 96 : 2 = 48 – FROM half of the front and back in order to calculate the size of the Darts on the front, back and on the side seams, subtracted from half of the EXHAUST with the cut half of allowances:58 – 48 = 10 cm Divide by 4 Darts: 10 : 4 = 2.5 cm How to calculate the size of the recesses for figures with a narrow waist – at the end of the second part of the article. The calculation of the pattern at the hip line will do the same later. Make a basic grid for the front and back. Build a basic "grid" for the pattern front we start with point 1 – photo 3. We need to hold the line of the neck 4 and the main horizontal line. The first is for the waist line, the second is the hips, the third line of the breast, fourth for the measurements Width of a breast. The distance to the waist line corresponds to the measure DPT is the length of the front to the waist, in our case 50 cm. set point 2 and draw a horizontal line. From point 2 measure down to 20 cm is the standard measurement for 50 – 58 sizes for the hips. Of course, it depends on growth. You have the distance from the waist to the thighs can be 18 – 21, see Check point 3 and draw a line of hips. From the waist line up to defer the measure the depth of the armhole. On average, 54 size, she is 15 – 16 cm In our example is 15.5. Put a dot 4 and swipe the Breasts. We have done a calculation of the measurements – the value of half of the front is equal to 29,5 see a dot 7 and draw the vertical base line down to the intersection with the line of the hips to point 8. The point on the line of the hips will calculate later. From point 1 down put 14 – 15 cm, set point 5, and draw a short horizontal line the width of the chest. We will continue, when will do the top pattern of the front. The semicircle of the neck. From point 1 to the left measure 7.5 to 8 cm – standard measurements of the half width of the neck for 50 – 58 sizes. Check the point 6. Depth as well is 7.5 - 8 cm – it is adjusted depending on the style of the product. To the front of the base base. We recommend to make a Foundation for the patterns of the back – you can be sure that in the finished pattern you will completely match all the base line and side line. The basis for the pattern of the back. From point 9 down set aside the measure of DST – the length of the back to the waist. We have it is equal to 43 cm point 10. Swipe in from the point 10 to the horizontal waist line. Down from point 10, as well as on the pattern front, the distance to the point 12, is equal to 20 cm – draw a line of hips. From point 10 up – delay the merc GP =15.5 cm – draw a line breast. The length of the line on the pattern of back – 28.5 cm. Put out 11. Can as well as on the pattern front, hold down the vertical baseline. Draw a line of the neck – from point 9 to the right to defer 7.5 or 8 cm point 13, and down – 2 – 2.5 cm is the depth of the cutout on the back. Align the 2 sheets of tracing paper with the basics of front and back – all horizontal lines of the chest, waist and hips, must match – 3.Building patterns the top 54 of the front size. Start doing the top of the front. From the point 6 to the left draw a line 9 cm long to point 14. From her down – 2.5 cm point 15. Draw the first line shoulder seam length 8 - 10 cm dotted line in photo 4. The shoulder length will specify later. On the shoulder line, from point 6 to the left, measure 6.5 cm – the point of beginning breast tuck.17. At the chest line from point 4 to the left, stopping 18 – the center of the chest. Calculation: (TF + 1) : 2 = (20 + 1) : 2 = 10,5 cm From a point 18 draw a vertical dotted line to its intersection with the line of the hips – this will be the center front tuck. Up will continue for 3 to 4 cm From the point 1 to the intersection with the resulting short line to delay the measure of VG – 32 see Point 19 – photo 5. Connect the points 17 and 19. Point height chest 19 can sometimes coincide with the line of the chest. But more often above 2 – 3 cm From point 17 to the left along the line of inclination of the shoulder, put a scoop of mortar tuck. 54 size at OG – 108 cm, it is equal to 11,5 cm OG = 110 cm – 12.5 cm, when EXHAUST = 100 cm – 9.5 cm, with OG = 104 – 105 – 11 cm, OG = 122 – 125 – 15 cm Put a point 20. Connect the points 19 and 20. Finished chest tuck of the front – on photo 6.Determine the width of the front. Connect the points 17 and 20, fold the pattern and make a crease tuck with a vertex at the point 19, photo 7. Continue the shoulder line and the line width of the breast. On the shoulder line, from point 20, to postpone 6.5 cm – point 21. In our example, measurement SPL – shoulder width = 13 cm is the length between points 1 and 21. Calculate the measure of the width of the chest:(CC + 1) : 2 = (38 + 1) : 2 = 19,5 cm will Continue the line width of the chest from point 5, put a distance of 19.5 cm and set point 22 photo 7. Through points 21, 22 and 7 guide the smooth line of the front armhole. Council. Sometimes the point 22 is too shifted to the side of the chest tuck. In this case, again check whether you have measured the measure of the width of the chest. Or add 0.5 – 0.7 cm in the direction of the armscye curve so that the pattern turned out proportional. Building Darts on the front. From the point of TSG 18 you have already spent a dotted line to the hip line – a dot 23 – photo 8. According to our calculation, the size of the Darts on the pattern front and back, on the side lines 2.5 cm From the point 24 at the intersection of the dotted lines the center of the Darts and waist line, to postpone the right and left, 1.2 cm In total, you get a 2.4 cm From a point 25 which is located at the intersection of the waist line and vertical base line you had on the side, from point 7 to point 8, the right to defer the same 2.5 cm point 26.The completion of the pattern front size 54 – line of the hips. The calculated total hip allowances:ABOUT + 3 = 116 + 3 = 119Полученную value divide in half: 119 : 2 = 59.5 cm Can be rounded to 60 in order to calculate the length of the line of the hips must be from the figures 60 subtract our base figure for size 54 - 58 cm (half the volume of the EXHAUST gas allowances).60 – 58 = 2 cm since we have 2 side seam on the pattern front and pattern back, divide 2 by 2 = 1 cm Case is in this method, the construction of the pattern-the basics of forehand, all horizontal dimensions are relative to the base of the vertical line that passes through points 7 and 8. Therefore, we expect the absolute value of half of the circumference of the hips, but relative. And the resulting figure 1 shows cm, how many cm hips will be longer than the chest. Photo 9 shows this more clearly – the point 27 to the left on the hip line, located 1 cm from the left baseline. You can get the figure half the volume of the thighs with the allowances less than half OG allowances. For example, if OG = 108 cm, ON = см109 109 + 3 = 112 112 : 2 = 56 cm In this case, we subtract 58 from 56. Received 2 cm as well divide by 2. But the line of the hips is offset relative to the baseline by 1 cm to the right of the point 28. In another measure ABOUT the point on the hip line may coincide with the base line. The bottom of the armhole. Check your semi-circle at the bottom of the armhole of the front – if you draw a right angle with a side length of 6.5 cm, the diagonal will be equal to a 2.8 – 3.2 cm – yellow arrows in photo 9. Finished pattern is the basis of the front size 54 with basic values – the photo 10. Length from point of the neck 1 to the hip line – 70 cm, length to the line of the front is 50 cm, the length of the line chest 29.5 cm, length waist line with a Central tuck 2.5 cm – 27 cm, length to the hips – 30.5 cm In the second part of this master class we will build a pattern-based backs size 54, learn how to evenly distribute the size of the Darts at waist and side seam for figures with a narrow waist, check the slope of the line of the shoulder using two additional measurements. A good ready patterns sleeves 44 and 58 razmarivaet method of constructing patterns of single-joint sleeves allows you to make your individual pattern – all the numbers are on photos and collages. Read more. How to adjust the pattern of the openings for Rustaveli you sew the model with sleeves: a dress, blouse or jacket, it is important to pre-test the conformity of the patterns of sleeve and arm openings. Read delicac to sew the zipper into the skirt, dress, pants. 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