So, the code of the method: link to the source: s://vk. com/@atelie_deva-postroenie-i-gradaciya-vykroiki-bustgaltera-na-kostochkah

Further - in the text - the code of the technique:

Part 1 - The Cup

Tools that we will need for work: 1. One of the most important tools that you will need to have is a “Flexible ruler” for measuring curved seams. Using roulette will not be accurate.

If you cannot get a flexible ruler, you can do it yourself by sticking a scale printed on the printer onto a piece of flexible plastic (for example, from a plastic folder).

2. “Flexi patterns” (blue flexible ruler in the photo) and a set of plastic patterns.

3. A set for drawing, consisting of a board in A2 format, “T” - a ruler and 2 squares.

4. Compasses, a regular ruler, pencil, sharpener, tracing paper or a wheel with spikes for translating patterns, paper.

BUILDING A CUP.

I’ll start with a cup block (remember, in industry, a sample without a seam is called a block). We will design the cup size 4 (in the UK the size is 34 ”B) and then we will do the graduation on your chest size.

Try to be as accurate as possible. I quoted measurements of two decimal places. I know that one millimeter is a very small division on the scale of the ruler, but try to take into account this second sign and keep the pencil sharpened sharply.

First step. (fig. 1)

On sheet A3, draw a horizontal straight line 12.85 cm long close to the bottom edge of the paper.

The compass is set to 8.72cm, draw an arc from one end of the line, and then from the other end of the line to the intersection with the first arc.

Connect the dots with straight lines, as shown in Figure 1.

This will form a tuck in the cup. You can write “Point Bust” or “PB” next to the intersection of arcs.

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Step Two (Fig. 2)

From the left end of the 12.85cm baseline, set the compass to 9.4cm and draw an arc.

From the “Bust Point”, set the compass to 10.26cm and draw an arc crossing to the first arc.

From the right edge of the 12.85cm baseline, set the compass to 9.4cm and draw an arc.

From the “Bust Point”, set the compass to 9.24cm and draw an arc crossing to the first arc. Connect the dots with straight lines as shown.

Step Three (Fig. 3)

Using a compass, draw arcs from 12.85cm of the baseline at 11.5cm and 10.45cm from the bust point on the left side (axillary side of the cup) and 10.8cm and 9.25cm on the right (center front) side.

Connect the obtained points in straight lines, as shown in the figure.

Step Four (Fig. 4)

Determine the point to which the bra strap will be sewn.

To do this, using a compass, draw an 11.57cm arc from the point of the bust. Then we draw an arc of 13.6cm from the point of 9.25cm (the central part of the cup) to the intersection with the first arc. And draw another 7.13cm arc to the intersection with the first two arcs. See drawing in figure 4.

Connect the dots with straight lines.

Step Five (Fig. 5)

Check cup measurement.

You should now be ready to draw curved lines (red lines on the diagram) of the cup outline using a Flexi ruler or lacquer.

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Step Six (Fig. 6)

We draw lines for graduation of the sizes of cups. There are 7 of them and they all diverge in rays from the point of the center of the chest.

Lines 3 and 6 are very important. They form a straight line running along the fullest part of your chest. On these lines, we will then break the pattern into pieces.

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Seventh step: Graduation shift

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We built a cup pattern for Size 4. To increase it, we need to postpone the values??corresponding to your breast size from the bust point (center of the chest) along the gradation lines (from 1st to 7th). For convenience, the table shows the size of the "step" - gradations between adjacent sizes.

Copy the cup template of the 4th size and for the convenience of building a new pattern. Using the template, it is convenient to copy corners at each point of a new pattern. Circle the pattern in the corners not completely. See visual instructions in the pictures (photo 7). At the very end, use the patterns to connect the corners of the pattern with smooth lines.

Part 2 - Bra Belt

We have completed the construction of the bra cup and are ready to proceed with the construction of the lower (chest) part and the back of the bra.

First you need to determine the size of the bones corresponding to your breast size. To do this, apply a Flexi ruler (the blue ruler in Fig. 1) to the base of the breast (where the chest connects to the body). This is the place where the bones are placed on the bra.

Important! The ruler inside should go exactly at the base of the chest! Do not go on the chest itself or go lower on the ribs!

Now on the Flexi ruler with a chalk, mark the point located below exactly vertically below the nipple. This is the “point of balance."

Next, imagine a horizontal line across the full part of the chest and put two marks: on the side of the axillary part of the chest and the central part about 2 cm above the imaginary horizontal line.

Now, carefully, without unbending the flexible ruler, we remove it from the body, place it on a sheet of paper and translate the resulting curve (along the inner edge). We put our points (Fig. 2)

You now have a curve to help you find the right temples for your size!

Now you need to choose the bones that are most suitable for the resulting curve.

Important! The bone that is closest to the size and shape of your chest will deviate from the resulting curve in the armpit (Fig. 3) This is not scary, because while wearing a bra from the belt tension, the bone will slightly spring and unbend.

Photo 3.

Here is a shape typical of a bone in the UK 34 ”B bra that will work with a Size 4 cup. (For example)

After you have acquired the necessary bones, you can proceed to the further construction of the pattern.

First step

Finding the "point of balance" (balance point) of your bones.

On sheet A3, draw a horizontal line through the center of the paper. Next to the right side of the paper, draw a line at an angle of 90 degrees (vertical) in the first line.

Place one of your bones on two lines so that the inner edge of the central front of the bone touches the vertical line and the lower part of the bone (again the inner edge) touches the horizontal line, as in the diagram. (Fig. 4)

In the place where the bone touches the horizontal line, put a mark on the paper. This is called the "equilibrium point" of the bone. Then, carefully along the inner edge of the bone, transfer its outline to the paper and mark the end points of the bone.

On paper, back down 5 mm from the center of the front end of the curved bone line and set a point. (fig. 5)

Carefully move the bone around the curved line, so that from the end of the CF it is now aligned with a 5mm dot on the paper.

Once again, draw around the inner edge of the bone on paper and mark the end points of the bone.

This slight bone displacement is needed to better fit the bend of the chest wall.

Second step

Now we need to straighten the bone a bit, simulating its position at the moment of bra belt tension, and redraw this line on paper. You may need a friend’s help to draw this line while you keep the bone open.

On paper, on the axillary part of the bone, place a 1.5 cm mark horizontally to the left of the original curve. Now, holding the bone on paper, so that the CF (in the center of the front) the end of the bone remains in its original position with respect to the first vertical line, and the second (axillary) end of the bone to 1.5 cm marks and redraw the new curved bone line. (Fig. .6)

Step three

After you have drawn the curved line of the bone in the "sprung" position, you need to add to each end of the curve 5 mm for the movement of the bone and 3 mm for fastening. So it turns out 8mm is added to each end of the bone curve. Extend the curve. (Fig. 7)

Fourth step

From the top point of the CF bone curve, draw a horizontal line 1.2 cm long, then draw down a vertical line parallel to the center line. The CF line is the center of the front of the bra. (Fig. 8)

Fifth step

Since the bones are thick, you need to add 3mm to the inner edge of the curve. (fig. 9)

This is not a seam allowance. We will add it at the very end of the construction.

Sixth step

After we have developed a curved line for the bones, we need to adjust the length of the line on the cups along which the cups will be sewn into the lower part.

Use the Flexible Ruler to accurately measure length “A” and length “B” and transfer them to the cup.

You may need to shorten or lengthen the curved lines of the cup to fit the curve under the bones, and then redraw the neckline and the line in the axillary portion of the cups. (fig. 10)

Seventh step

Now we move on to building the rest of the lower belt. Remember that we only cook one half of the bra (right side).

Lay down 6 mm, 18 mm, 28 mm and 76 mm down from the first horizontal line and draw horizontal lines through these points. (fig. 11)

Step Eight

From the top of the ossicular stitching curve at CF, draw a horizontal line across the drawing to the axillary side.

Where this line intersects the curved bone line in the armpit, draw a line vertically down to the “28mm” line and mark the intersection point “A”. (fig. 12)

Step Nine (Fig. 13)

In further calculations, we will use percentage values.

For instance:

If I asked you to draw a line of 32% of your half-circumference under the chest, the calculation would be:

Measure half under the chest = 50cm,

Divide 50 cm by 100 = 0.5,

Then multiply 0.5 by 32 = 16cm

Thus, the length of your line will be 16cm.

Again, if I asked you to draw a line of 17.1% of your half-circumference under the chest, the calculation would be:

Measure half under the chest = 50cm

Divide 50 cm by 100 = 0.5

Then multiply by 0.5 with 17.1 = 8.55cm

Thus, the length of your line will be 8.55cm.

From point A on the 28mm line we set aside 4.56% of your semi-girth under the chest and set the point.

Example, PO under breast = 50 cm, 50/100 = 0.5, 0.5 x 4.56 = 2.28cm

Following the diagram, draw the lateral line of the belt (17.1% of the PO under the chest) and the upper axillary part of the belt (9.3% of the PO under the chest).

Step Ten (Fig. 14)

From the bottom of the 17.1% lateral suture, draw a 32% PO line under the chest so that it crosses a horizontal line of 76 mm.

At this intersection, draw a line 2.5 cm long at right angles to 32% of the PO under the chest of the line. This 2.5cm line will be the CB (Center Back Line) of the bra where the hens and loops are sewn. 2.5cm should be wide enough for two hooks and loops of wide fastening, although for larger cup sizes you may have to go for three hooks and loops of wide fastening. You can change this line to the size of your clasp.

On the 32% line, set aside 4.8cm from 2.5cm for the line of hooks and loops, and draw a 6.6cm line up from the line at a right angle to the 32% line.

Step 11 (Fig. 15)

Fill the drawing with smooth lines as shown in Figure 15.

Step Twelve (Fig. 16, 17)

Add 5mm allowances over all cuts of the pattern and draw the line lines as in the drawing.

The end of the text of the original methodology.

Analysis of the English methodology, analysis of possible landing defects, my conclusions

So, I’ll add from myself: I did not repeat the construction of the belt pattern, because the belt will turn out to be defective in fit - the back is deflected too much towards the bottom.

I have my own way. ="s://loskutkova. ru/archives/9542" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Description of the construction of the bra belt on the bone.

I add that I liked the construction of a bra cup. Simple. Fast to remember. Fast to build.

There are several points for those who are interested in building large-size bra patterns. This technique is not suitable for large sizes - the cup will be flat due to the tuck solution.

Tuck in large sizes need to be increased. Moreover, an increase in the tuck solution occurs in proportion to the increase in size.

How this flaw in the technique will affect the product: an excess will appear in the upper region of the cup. You can call it an extra fold. "Pocket". "Ears".

Correcting this defect is better on the probe.

Build a cup of your size. And sew a test pattern. Better from dense material - for example, from felt:

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I don’t try on a belt - because, in my pattern of a belt built on the bone, I’m sure.

If at the base of the probe of a cup of felt, a stitch for the bones (tunnel) is sewn and a bone of your size is inserted into it, then you can not do a belt for the probe. And trying on just a cup is very convenient.

1 part -

Building a bra pattern on wireframes

By the English method - video

(show construction in the program Valentina)

[embed]s://www. youtube. com/watch? v=0MeUB6s4IDc[/embed]

Part 2 - Analysis of the methodology - video

[embed]s://www. youtube. com/watch? v=XxY1z9L9RTU[/embed]



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