Lana-web. gillana > Sew yourself a Good ready-made patterns 44 - 58 size Master class # 16 – part 1.There are several way to build a pattern of single-joint sleeve. But even the best of them, which I taught courses on modeling and tailoring - not ideal. So I decided not only to acquaint you with it, but based on the calculations and baseline to post photo collages of the most successful patterns of the sleeves with the finished figures, which correspond to 44 – 58 size. These patterns are universal, and after the necessary adjustments of the widths of the sleeves and the depth of the armhole, you can use them for any models of clothes. For example, it looks like the pattern sleeve size 48, which corresponds to the circumference of the arms 29 – 30 cm, designed with the basic standards. You will need only 2 formulas and calculations 3 baseline. But since I know that all I want to do everything faster, the collage of the article is almost ready patterns for sleeves 44, 46, 54 - 56 58 - 60 sizes. More specifically, for measurements of the circumference of the sleeve corresponding to 23 – 24cm, 26, 34 and 36 cm This is the size of the best sleeves for dresses, blouses and jackets of cotton, linen, viscose thick and thin wool, not other stretch fabrics that I use for sewing products for her clients. The pattern of sleeves, I made the appropriate pattern of openings, which they are perfectly sewed. How the size of the top part of the sleeve corresponds to the height and depth of the openings depends on the end result – the article "How correctly to adjust and deepen the armhole". The height of the top part of the sleeve is the main figure in the construction of patterns. But I recommend to use the estimated figures and are shown on the collages – they are long tested by practice, and the resulting experiments. According to the method, which I recommend you, IN (the height of the crown) is calculated by the formula:VP (height of openings) : 4 and multiply by 3 for Example, sleeve 46 size when gripping the hand 26 cm, the calculation is: VP = 18,5 cm Rounded to 18.18 : 4 = 4.5 X 3 = 13.5 Cm But the pattern on the collage trip – line CB = 15.5 cm. This figure is perfect for sleeveless models semi – fitted silhouette - dresses, blouses, light jackets. Other measurements for patterns of single-joint sleeves 46 size, with circumference hands 25 – 26 cm is shown in this collage. The second formula will allow you to calculate the required width of the sleeve at the level of the axilla. Then you can keep it straight or make narrower to the necessary size. To do this, OR – the girth of the sleeves, added the allowance for the free fit. How to correctly measure OR – in the article "How to measure for patterns-the basics". For the pattern sleeve dress add 7 – 8cm for a summer jacket and blouse – 8 - 9 see For our example with PR = 26 cm sleeve width 34 cm is equal to:26 + 8 = 34Построение patterns. After the calculation, draw the first main line OD, is equal to the width obtained at a distance of 20-25 cm from the top edge of the tracing paper or drawing paper. Line CB is the Central line of the sleeve. Its location depends on your size and measurements or. For 44 – 48 it is necessary to divide the distance OD in half (point C1), and to move the line 0.5 cm to the right, towards the front half of the pattern. For the 46 size:OD = 3434 : 2 = 1717 + 0,5 = 17,5 – the width of the rear half of the pattern – distance OS. Front width, the distance CD, respectively, equal to 16,5 см17 – 0,5 = 16,5 In all the following photos I pointed out are already calculated numbers. For pattern sleeveless 50 – 54 size, divide the width of the OD in half and add to the value of the back half 1, see Example – the sleeves 56 and 58 sizes available for the following collages. For the sleeves very large, the difference between the length of the front and rear halves of the sleeve may be 3 to 3.5 cm Different length of halves of the sleeve corresponds to different height and length of the openings of the shelf and back into the patterns-the basis for figures with a normal posture. For stooping figures, this difference can be even greater. And for the so-called "pereghibati" shapes that have a length of back to waist, almost equal to length of front to waist, length of arms and width of the halves of the sleeve may be the same. So someone fit the standard pattern of fashion magazines, such as popular magazine Burda, and other things sewn on to the finished pattern look skewed. And it's hard to sew in the sleeves correctly, without any defects and distortions. Once again, I advise to spend time and make an individual pattern-based. Continue to build the pattern sleeve. From the point C draw the vertical line S equal to the height of the top part. Size 44 – (RR = 23 – 24 cm) – 14, 5 см46 size (RR = 25 - 26 cm) – 15,5 см48 size (RR = 28 - 29 cm) – 16 50 size (HR = 30 - 31 cm) – 16,552 size (RR = 32 - 33 cm)– 17 – 17,554 - 56 dimensions – (HR = 33 - 34 cm)– 18 – 18,558 - 60 dimensions – (RR = 34 - 35 cm) – 20 - 20,5 improvedin the line of the top part. From a point In the right and left, take a measure of distance, approximately equal to one-fourth the width of the back or front halves. The optimal distances are shown for each size in the collages. For the 46 size distance To B1 = 4.5 cm, and B2 – 4 cm are Similar to the distances you need to measure the line width of the sleeves in the OD side of the center line SV:Distance O – O1 = In – В1Расстояние D – D1 = – B2 in order to spend a nice and smooth line of the top part of the sleeve, use auxiliary lines 1, 2, 3 and 4. For patterns 44 – 48 size, the length of the line 1 which defines the depth of the deflection of the front half – 0,8 – 1,2 cm Length of line 2, making the deflection of the rear half of 1.2 – 1.7 cm Line 3 for 46 - 48 sizes allowing to hold the upper semicircle of the front half – sleeves 0.5 – 0.8 cm the length of the line 4 to the top part of the rear half – 0,8 – 1,4 SMDs sleeves 54 – 56 size line lifts the front can pass on the main line B2 – D1. After all the points marked on the diagram of the pattern and main lines, guide the final smooth line of the top part. Pattern sleeve size 44.Pattern sleeve 54 – 56 sizes. Pattern sleeve 58 - 60 size. Clarification. The increase in free fit to measure the circumference of the sleeve – figure relative. For example, the width of the short sleeves, this stylish white dress tunic made of cotton, approximately equal to the width of a feminine blouse with chiffon sleeves. But they look different – chiffon gently hides the overall volume and narrow cuffs. These sleeves were used for a raise in 8 – 9 see Sleeve red blazer already noticeable, although the sizes of these models are identical. The increase is not more than 8 cm For the same basic 44 - 46 size used patterns of sleeves of different widths. Sleeve for models of a stretch fabric. Any pattern on the modern clothing industry is now being developed using computer programs and technologies. And we have no opportunity to experiment with the amounts. If you have a proportional figure, corresponding to the standard standards specified in the table of standards of the journal with patterns, you're in luck – now you can find sewing patterns for models of elastic tissues. If you make the pattern yourself, for example, dresses made of stretch viscose, you will have evenly and gradually, proportionally reducing the volumes of front and back – photos on this collage. As well reduced and pattern sleeves which you have made for yourself. For example, in such cases, I spend 2 – 3 fittings instead of the traditional one. For example, compare these 2 patterns for the size 46 – I specifically took a picture of them together. The width of the "stretch" sleeve is 30 cm, plain, non – elastic fabrics - 34 cm Armholes are also different. The more elastic and thinner the fabric, the shorter armhole and less than its length at the level of the axilla. The exact dimensions of the openings in the above recommended article about the correction of the openings of the pattern-base. But for dresses, posted this collage on the left, sleeve width is even less – about 25 – 27 cm So the pattern is the basis for each dress from a stretch fabric, and pattern sleeve, always from scratch, given the model and the degree of elasticity of the fabric. And brought to the optimal size gradually, and taking into account features of the figure. Recommendations. In order to reduce any of the patterns, enough to hold a second contour along the line of the crown by 0.2 – 0.3 cm On the side seams up to 0.5 – 0.7 cm, depending on the product model. In order to make the sleeve wider by the line OD, it is enough to add 0,5 – 1 cm, without changing the height and width of the top part. Depending on the style, you can leave the side line (stitch line) straight, evenly sause on both sides, or, conversely, to expand, giving the shape of a trapezoid. Building patterns Raglan sleeves – detail and famously you want to learn how to build the pattern Raglan sleeves for dresses, blouses or jacket, I recommend you this new master class, with detailed descriptions and photos. Read dalemark and patterns-the basis for 50-58 sizes. Table 50-58 standards sizes for different types of shapes: "Apple", "pear", "hourglass", and settlement patterns. They will help you to build your own individual pattern-based. Read more. Sew a straight skirt with vented hem and lining – part 1 How to cut out, to prepare for fitting and sew a straight skirt or a pencil skirt, the yoke, or without it, with vented hem and lining – a master class with photos. Read delicac to sew waistband to skirt or pants to Sew yourself a belt to a skirt or trousers is not difficult, if it is done correctly and consistently. Detailed instructions with photos. Read deleese article sitepornbase article? Share the link with your friends! 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