Lana-web. gillana > Simulated and sew yourself Patterns and shawl English vorotnikom master class will help you learn how to do patterns the most popular type of collar – English, short and long, for single-breasted and double-breasted models. Method of constructing simple and accurate, and it will allow you to independently simulate the basic pattern of the collar, depending on the chosen model blouse, jacket or blazer.Pattern classic English collar. Copy the pattern of the shelf on the tracing paper to the right of the line mid-front, you had tracing paper with a width of 20 – 25 cm to simulate the collar. The construction of patterns of a collar of any kind begins with the fact that the pattern-based adds the seam allowance on the clasp. For jacket of light fabric, a fitted silhouette, or blouse, you can use its pattern-based without any changes. In that case, if you decide to make a jacket of denser fabrics such as wool or boucle, it is better to build another pattern taking into account other values of increments on the free fit. Stock on the clasp, no seam allowance, usually equal 1.5 – 2.5 cm, depending on the model. On average, for blouses it is 1.5 – 5 cm for jacket 2 – 2,5 for coat – 2,5 -3 cm For double breasted jacket – 4 to 6 see, I used to use a simple ruler – the line is smooth, and most importantly – without any waste of time. Still fitting the width of the seam allowance again specified. As the upper collar forms a stand, it is recommended that the crest line of the collar at a distance of 2 – 2.5 cm from the extreme point of the neck - on a photo 1 it is indicated with a dotted line. This method I do not like even 17 years ago, and I put a line break or directly from a point A1 of the neck, if we sew a jacket made of thin fabric, or if more dense – at a distance of A1 to A2 equal to 0.5 – 1 cm – 2. This is enough to keep the collar in the finished product looked perfect. Determine the length of the collar and mark it on the line mid-front – on photo 1 it is closed with a ruler. Draw a line of bend of the collar photo 2. Fold the tracing paper along this line – by stock will be on top of the shelves. Attach the pattern to itself so that the shoulder line on the pattern exactly coincided with your shoulder line on photo 3 is a horizontal blue line at the top. Then you can draw the collar of any shape that fits your model. In photo 3 sketch of the collar is drawn in red. Unfold the blueprint – your collar will look like the one in photo 5. Now we begin to build a pattern of the upper collar. From the extreme point of shoulder seam to point 7 on the photo 6, swipe up a short line. Its length corresponds to the length of the neckline on the pattern, half of the back. For 45 – 48 size is the distance, depending on the model, about 5 cm, 52 – 56 size can be 5.5 – 7 cm to Choose the optimum tilt angle indicated by dashed lines at point 7, is more complicated. Tip 1. If you hold it at an angle of 90 degrees as is advised in many books on sewing, then 2 - 3 times, when executing orders, it turned out that the collar had to be redone. It's either too tightly to the neck, or pulled up bottom collar. For myself, I chose the angle of 70 – 80 degrees, depending on the model of the jacket, coat or jacket. If my client chose the model of the jacket in which the upper collar, almost rests on the shoulders, the tilt angle will be 70 – 75 degrees – jacket in red in the following collage. If I sew a jacket of business style, in which classic English collar is adjacent to the neck – model orange color, the angle will be 75 – 80 degrees. After you put the length of the half collar on the back, from this point, draw perpendicular line and mark the width of the collar. Preferably 5 to 6 cm, because the collar needs to completely close the back seam. Completed pattern top collar in photo 8.Tip 2. In this photo, also note the blue dotted line connecting the two points of the upper collar it is held at a distance of 0.5 – 0.7 cm from the smooth line, which you spent drawing the layout of the collar. It is for this line to cut the pattern of the upper collar, and a smooth, red color, lower collar. It is a short distance will help you to sew the collar so that it looked more neat. Almost all jackets with an English collar now apply a pattern with a corner line of the neck, which corresponds to a similar shape of the top of the collar 14 photo collage with red and orange jackets. But this method I do not recommend novice seamstresses to sew because this collar is more difficult than with a semi-circular neckline. One awkward movement when carrying the notch, and the thing will be spoiled. Besides, if you are just learning to sew, you can sew completely ready upper collar between the main product and podborta with a lining. Corner collars sewed on to another method - but it is necessary to make a separate master class. Continue to do the pattern. After finished pattern of the upper collar, cut a shelf at the zip lines and the contours of collars – photo 9. Be sure to spend on the patterns of collars a short auxiliary lines. On the upper collar connection point with the shoulder seam on the lower connection point with the upper collar (point 11). After you make some parts of the upper collar and shelves, duplicate their fabric and re-draw the contours of patterns, these places make a short, no deeper than 2 mm, the notch on the allowances of the fabric. This will help you to sew the details of the jacket without bias. And English collar is on your figure to look as beautiful and right as in the layout of the blue jacket. Modeling English collar double-breasted. English collar looks spectacular in double-breasted coats and blazers. You can build a pattern according to the previous method. The only difference is that the line width of clasp – 5 – 7 cm depending on model – photo 14. The angle of inclination of the upper collar relative to the shoulder seam better to do 70 – 75 degrees. To adjust be fitting, depending on how things will play out the bottom collar. Sometimes you have to find it again. Therefore it is better to make a prototype out of cotton fabric. Models of women's jackets and blazers with English collar. Now that you know the basic method of construction of the pattern of the English collar, you can sew clothes with short collars, long, single breasted and double breasted. Blazers and jackets with English collar, which stretched up and sharpened the tips of the lower collar look, of course, beautiful. But to sew them yourself, you can later, when you will already have experience. I hope this article has helped you learn quickly, easily, and correctly to build patterns of English collars of various types. I wish you success! Lana Denisoverlay master-class - article "Shawl collar - pattern and simulation" Easy to simulate the bodice and blouse with telefonkatalogen pattern-bases and the creation of a semi-circular and vertical relief on the bodice, back and base of the product. Examples and photos. Modeling using transfer recesses. Read milieutechniek ready patterns sleeves 44 – 58 size, This method of constructing patterns of single-joint sleeves allows you to make your own pattern for dresses and jackets.. Read dolecek right to shorten and hem pants by yourself. How to properly and efficiently shorten the trousers so as not to spoil the new thing? Make it pretty easy, and I will explain in what sequence - 3 way. Read deleese article sitepornbase article? Share the link with your friends! Popular articles Section Createraster Health Section of the Women's club Contact information Lana-web. Yavorsky website 2012 >> Copyright © >> lana-web. ru - author's site about fashion, style, beauty, health. Copying site materials is allowed only if there is an indexed reference to the source