Let's build a pencil skirt pattern. By design, this is a classic straight skirt, narrowed to the bottom.

Before building, we measure ourselves and write 2 measurements:

St - half-waist

Sat - half hips

To find out St measure your waist circumference and divide the resulting value by 2. To find out Sat measure your hips and divide the resulting value by 2.

The pattern is built on half the skirt, so the waist and divide the hips into two.

Then select the increase:

Fri - increase in the waist. Take Fri = 1 cm.

Pb - hips increase. Take Pb = 2 cm.

For an example in this construction I use the following Values: St = 38 cm, Sat = 52 cm, Fri = 1 cm, Sat = 2 cm.

Now we take: a large sheet of graph paper in A1 format, ruler, centimeter tape, sharpened pencil with an eraser and build pattern.

Base grid construction

Build a right angle with a vertex at a point T.

From point T lay vertically down TB and TN.

TB = 19.5 cm

TN = desired skirt length. I will take TH = 60 cm. I will highlight my calculations in italics.

From point B horizontally to the right we postpone segments BB1 and BB2.

BB1 = Sat + Pb, BB1 = 52 + 2 = 54 cm.

BB2 = (Sat + Pb) / 2, BB2 = (52 + 2) / 2 = 27 cm.

The basic grid of the skirt is ready:

Now we proceed to the construction of the pattern.

Build a refined waistline. For this from the point T1 put down 0.5 cm and put a point T10 And from the point T2 set aside 0.5 cm and put a point T20.

Points T, T20, T10 - connect with straight lines.

Now we build tucks.

First, find the amount of tucks - this is the difference between the waist and hips.

The amount of darts = (Sat + Pb) - (St + Fri), sum of darts = (52 + 2) - (38 + 1) = 15 cm.

The found amount of tucks needs to be distributed on 3 tucks: lateral, back and front.

Side Tuck = 0.5 Total Tucks, lateral tuck = 0.5 x 15 = 7.5 cm.

Rear tuck = 0.3 sum of tucks, rear tuck = 0.3 x 15 = 4.5 cm.

Front tuck = 0.2 total tucks, front tuck = 0.2 x 15 = 3 cm.

Tuck solutions have been identified, now find their position. The side tuck is located in the side seam, in the drawing it is a vertical T2N2.

Find the position of the rear tuck. For this from the point B to the right horizontally, postpone the segment BB3:

BB3 = 0.4 x BB2, BB3 = 0.4 x 27 = 10.8 cm.

Find the position of the front tuck. From point B1 left horizontally postpone the segment B1B4:

B1B4 = 0.4 x B1B2, B1B4 = 0.4 x 27 = 10.8 cm.

Build the back tuck. From point T3 left and right, along the adjusted waistline, we postpone half of the solution of the posterior tuck, we get the points T31 and T32.

T3T31 = T3T32 = 4.5 / 2 = 2.3 cm (rounded according to the rules of mathematics).

Back Tuck Length: 15 ... 17 cm. For small growth, we take a lower value, for tall - more.

T3T33 = 16 cm.

Connect the dots with straight lines. T31, T33, T32 - we get the back tuck.

Build a front tuck. From point T4 left and right, along the adjusted waistline, we postpone half of the solution of the front tuck, we get the points T41 and T42.

T4T41 = T4T42 = 3/2 = 1.5 cm.

Front Tuck Length: 9 ... 11 cm.

T4T43 = 10 cm.

Do not be afraid to make a mistake when choosing the length of the tucks. Their length depends on the features of the figure and is easily adjusted by fitting.

Connect the dots with straight lines. T41, T43, T42 - get the front tuck.

We build a lateral tuck. From point T20 on the adjusted waistline we postpone half of the lateral tuck solution, we get the points T21 and T22.

T20T21 = T20T22 = 7.5 / 2 = 3.8 cm (rounded according to the rules of mathematics).

Side Tuck Length: 18 ... 19 cm.

T20T23 = 18.5 cm.

Connect the dots with straight lines. T21, T23, T22. Then the sides of the lateral tuck are formed by smooth convex lines similar to the shape of a hip.

Here is the pattern of the skirt at this stage:

And she’s almost ready. There is the final touch. Because the we are building a pencil skirt - the bottom needs to be slightly narrowed.

From point H2 to the right and left we postpone the amount of narrowing - 1 ... 3 cm. How to narrow the skirt - choose at will. You can narrow it a bit, and after trying to narrow it again.

??1 = ??2 = 2.5 cm

Points H21 and H22 connect straight lines with a point B2.

In narrowed skirts, the side lines lengthen slightly. Therefore lines B2N21 and B2N22 extend slightly down - By 0.5 ... 1 cm. The larger the narrowing, the longer we lengthen. And draw the final bottom line in a smooth rounded line, connecting the dots: H and H21, H1 and H22.

Now the pattern of the pencil skirt is completely ready:

You can cut it directly from the constructed drawing, or translate into tracing paper.

The contours of the back of the skirt pass through the points: T, T31, T33, T32, T21, T23, B2, n21, N, B. Line TN - the line of the middle of the posterior panel. There will be a back seam in which a slot or incision is made. (For slots, do not forget to add an additional allowance when cutting). Also line TN must match the direction of the shared thread on the fabric.

The contours of the front panel of the skirt pass through the points: T22, T41, T43, T42, T10, B1, H1, N22, B2, T23. Line T10N1 - the line of the middle of the front panel. When cutting, this line must be applied to the fold of a double-folded fabric. Also line T10N1 must match the direction of the shared thread on the fabric.

Finished details of the pattern look like this:

On the left is the back panel of the skirt. On the right is the front panel of the skirt.

You can get fabric and cut. Good luck!

?Olesya Shirokova, “Sewing Children to Ourselves?/strong>

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