Lana-web. gillana >> Simulated and sew themselves >> Continue to do pattern-based 54 reserpine than to continue a master class "Fine pattern-the basis of the size 54" and start building the pattern of the back, will ask you to measure 2 control measurements. In the article about building a basic pattern-the basics, I drew attention to them – they are not so relevant for small, medium, large 44 – 48 sizes. But building patterns 50 and 60 sizes must be considered, as they help to correct the shoulder seam line. Indeed, among girls and women with curvy figures often observed the stoop. If this is not the treat you miss it. I also illustrate how to do the calculation tucks not only for shapes with proportional completeness, but also to figures of the "hourglass" silhouette. In this case, when the basic volume of the breast and thighs, the waist narrow, and the depth of each of the four recesses is obtained 4 – 4.2 cm If you do not distribute evenly this value by 2 - 3 tuck, then a dress, blouse or jacket, adjacent silhouette, not from a stretchy fabric, will look not ideal. Control measurements. The first of them – VGK – breast height oblique. Is measured from the protruding point of the chest to the extreme point of the shoulder seam – photo 11. If you have sloping shoulders, the shoulder line can be carried out using the control point even when you build the pattern, not fitting. The second control measurement – sun – the height of the oblique back – right in the photo. Measured from the point on the spine, at the waist line to the end point of the shoulder seam. If the figure is stooped, or, conversely, parageusia, or if there is a big difference between the standards of length of front and length of back, you can more accurately draw the line of the shoulder. As well as to find possible errors in the measurement of these standards. We will check the slope line of the shoulder after complete the pattern of the back. In the first part of the master class, I recommend you build a basic "grid" for the pattern of the back while building the fundamentals of the forehand. Recall the obtained measurements – photo 12. From point 9 to point 12 on the left hold the center line of the pattern of the back. Distance between 9 – 10 is equal to the measure of DST – the length of the back to the waist. In our example, a = 43 cm From waist line to the hip line from point 10 to point 12 = 20 cm From waist line to the chest line and the pattern of the front – 15.5 cm, and the length of the chest line on the pattern back = 28.5 cm Neck, from point 9 to point 13 = 7.5 or 8 cm, depth – 2 or 2,5 cm Line of inclination of the shoulder build as well as on the pattern of the front: from the point 13 to the right to defer 9cm – point 14. From her down perpendicularly to defer 2.5 cm to Hold the line of the shoulder and to postpone our measurements shoulder Width = 13 cm – point 21 photo 13. Distance between 9 – 16 are usually still 11 – 13 cm is the line where you measured the measure of the width of the back. The distance of the width of the back in the pattern, from point 16 to point 17 is calculated by the formula:(SS + 1 cm) : 2 = (39 + 1) : 2 = 20 see Through points 21, 17 and 11, guide the smooth line of the armhole of the back. I don't normally do a tuck on the shoulder line, and add 0.5 – 1 cm for proposedi shoulder seam on the back. If you need a tuck (if the shape is very round-shouldered), divide the shoulder line in half, slide a perpendicular line to shoulder line length 6 – 8 cm (yellow arrow) and do a tuck with a width of 1 cm, the shoulder Line will extend 1 cm Constructing Darts at the back. The main width of the tuck on the half pattern, and width side is the same and equal to 2.5 cm, Divide the length line of the breast in half, and slide the thin center line of Darts from point 19 to point 20 on the line of the hips. The beginning of the tuck – 2 – 4 cm above the chest. On either side of the center line of the delay to 1.2 cm and a tuck – in photo 13 they are marked with yellow arrows. Side seam. From point 11 to the line of the hips, slide the base of the vertical line, photo 13, yellow line parallel to the center line of the middle of the back. Since according to our calculations, the hips of a long line of breast on 1 cm dot 22 on the hip line a centimeter to the right from the baseline. On the waist line from the left baseline to defer the width side tuck = 2.5 cm point 23. To hold the line of the side seam of the connecting points 11, 23 and 22.How to check the slope of the line of the shoulder. Using the control standards of the military-industrial complex (height of the front oblique) and VSK (the height of the back slash), we will be able to check and adjust the inclination of shoulder lines – photo 14. The pattern backless measure same as you measured it on its shape – from a point on the waist line to the extreme point on the shoulder line – the dotted line on photo 14. If the figure is round-shouldered, the shoulder line moves up – the dotted line. If parageusia down. If merc FAC measured correctly and coincides with the standard slope of the shoulder seam, then raise by 0.5 – 1 cm, as in the photo, must in that case, if you sew a dress or blouse, jacket of light fabric, the models which are provided for the pads. In order to check the inclination of the shoulder line on the pattern front, draw a line from the center point of the chest to the extreme point of the shoulder seam blue arrow. If the measurements match, then Express the slope of the shoulder changes. If a model with shoulder pads - add the same distance up as at the back. If you want to change the slope of the line of the shoulder, align the edge of the lapel Darts, as shown in the photo on the right. Measure the desired measure – yellow line. And draw a new shoulder line from neck point. The most difficult to build an accurate pattern-based for big size figures of the "hourglass" silhouette, as it is necessary to properly distribute the Darts on the difference between bust and waist. In our example we have considered in this master class, we did a pattern 54 is proportional to the size of the full-figured silhouette "Apple" be a yardstick:OG = 108От = 93 And the sum of all the four Darts was only 10 cm by 2.5 cm each. Measurements for the figure with a slim waist 54 size:OG = 108 cm = 82 smob = 114 – 116 smerca of poluobhvat chest remains (OG + 8) : 2 = (108 + 8) : 2 = 58 smartcet tucks:(FROM + 3) : 2 = 85 : 2 = 42,558 – 42,5 = 15 ,5 you Can round up 15 or 16 sdelim this figure by 4 Darts: 16 : 4 = 4 cm If the side Darts are a width of 4 cm, then you will be hard nicely make the item at the side seam – too much deflection will not allow properly iron a dress, blouse or jacket. So we unevenly distribute the amount of Darts. For example, make the width of the lateral recesses at less than 1 cm - 3 cm patterns the front and back. Then the depth of the main recesses so as to increase by 1 cm and is 5 cm Divide this distance by 2 Darts, 3 cm wide and 2 cm – photo 15 and 16. On the pattern front half of the Central tuck, which we built from the point CG (center of chest), slip is not necessary. Its width in our sample is 3 cm in order to hold the second tuck, offset towards the side seam, divide in half the distance between points 1 and 2 on the waist line – a horizontal yellow line in the photo 16. Its length is shorter than the Central tuck, 2 – 3 cm, asarina - 2 cm On the pattern of the back, the Central tuck may need to be moved 1.5 – 2 cm toward the center of the pattern. Its width is 3 cm Lateral tuck is the same as on the pattern front, its width is 2 cm For the pattern of the back size the Central tuck 3 cm is quite a lot. Therefore it is better to choose the model of the dress or jacket with a center back seam. In this case, the width of the main Darts will be: 3 – 1 = 2 cm And 1 cm can be easily moved to the Central suture – photo 15. Extra tuck, by the way, can be successfully used for modeling products with cutting side – rather from the top recesses to hold the fluid lines to the armholes, the pattern of the front or back – photo 17 and 15. The master class "How to build a pattern-based size 54" finished. I hope I managed to explain everything in detail. I wish you good luck! Measurements and patterns are the basis for 50-58 sizes. Table 50-58 standards sizes for different types of shapes: "Apple", "pear", "hourglass", and settlement patterns. They will help you to build your own individual pattern-based. Read duleviciene and modeling English collar How to make accurate patterns of the English collar – master class with useful tips. Modeling patterns of collars of different types. Read delicac to choose fabrics for individual possiveis the variety of fabrics, it is important to choose the one that best suits the style of the model dress, skirt, blouse or jacket you want to make. The properties of fabrics of different composition. Read deleese article sitepornbase article? Share the link with your friends! Popular articles Section Createraster Health Section of the Women's club Contact information Lana-web. Yavorsky website 2012 >> Copyright © >> lana-web. ru - author's site about fashion, style, beauty, health. Copying site materials is allowed only if there is an indexed reference to the source