Lana-web. gillana >>Simulated and sew themselves >> Building patterns womens vest with vorotnikom master class – the second part of the article about the building and modeling the patterns of women's vests. In a previous article I showed how to model pattern-based to create patterns classic women's vest with V-neck. In this article, the building patterns of the jackets with an English collar and a collar stand. And methods transfer breast tuck, which will allow you to sew a vest of any model. The article about the construction patterns of the English collar I was advised novice seamstresses to make a pattern of the upper collar are not with the angular lines and the round – to work with him much easier. In the recommended article this process is described in detail, so now we will pay more attention to how to simulate a pattern-based vest or jacket to sew the model with a cutting side details photo 12. About changes of patterns of shelves and back, deepening the armholes, you can read the first part of the master class. The only difference is that changes to the neckline. After you drew the line the edge of the Board at a distance of 1.5 cm from the mid line of the shelf, draw the shape of the English collar and make pattern of the upper collar. Draw the hem of the vest and pockets. Typically, the line starts pockets on the waist line and crosses the line of the Central tuck at a slight angle. Make a pattern of the side parts of the vest. Width of the finished side panel needs to be at least 10 cm to get a nice fit in the waist in the finished product. The optimal width of 11 – 15cm depending on your size. For example, 46 – 48 sizes, you choose the width of the side part 11, see Distribute is the distance between the upper shelves and backs better due to the width of the items on the shelf – 5 cm, on the back – 6 cm – photo 13. After you have determined the width guide lines of the side of the reliefs on the front and the back. Width side tuck – in 1 to 1.5 cm On the shelf the width of the Central tuck you expect, subtracting the width of the side tuck. On average, depending on the measurements FROM the distance is 2 – 2.5 cm On the back of the calculation is similar. But the width of the side tuck is better to do not more than 1 cm, and Central – not more than 1.5 – 2 cm - photo 13, the red arrows. Cut the sides of the shelves and back along the lines of the reliefs, cut the vellum or paper in the field of tucks at the waist. The simulated pattern backless vest. Model jackets with a detachable side parts do not involve the shoulder tuck detail on the back. Therefore, it is necessary to close. The exception is round-shouldered figure. In this case, tuck it, leave it. How to make. Divide the distance between points 1 and 2 (photo 14) approximately in half, draw a horizontal line. Cut the pattern back along this line to the top of the shoulder tuck – point 3. Connect the side of the shoulder tuck. In order that the length of the openings is not changed, the emerging solution a little tuck going to the armhole, evenly distributed. First, line the center seam of the back, from the bottom of the neck 4 at the left 0.5 cm and hold a smooth line top of the center seam. Second, change the angle of the line of the shoulder seam, lowering it down by 0.2 – 0.3 mm – dot 5. When combining the sides of the shoulder tuck, they may not be the same length. Just make a new shoulder seam line and cut off the excess. Close a breast tuck. In order to close a breast tuck, cut the part of the shelf (without side panel) on the line of the pocket and connect the sides of the tuck – photo 15. The top tucks down into 1 – 2 cm down to point 6. Then connect the edge of the Central tuck on shelves and connect the sections of the pocket. Due to the slope of the line of the pocket, usually overlaying the top part on the bottom in the pocket. Most often it is obtained when the measure of the EXHAUST gas is equal to 88 – 90 cm. in order to cut off the excess without disturbing the line of inclination of the pocket, draw a line from the top of the chest Darts to the side seam points 7 and 8, the cut pattern on this line. At point 8 try to impose one detail to another so as not to change the length of the Darts, but to lose 2 – 3 mm on the touchline – photo 16.The construction of the pattern cutting side. In order to connect the side of the shelves and back in one piece on a sheet of paper draw a vertical line – dotted line in photo 17. And cut these details at the waist. With the combination superimposed upper and lower parts. Compensate lost when applying millimeters on the bottom line – photo 17.The end of the pattern. Check all lines of reliefs and recesses – they must match in length. Recheck the smoothness of the hem on the pattern piece of the back and side parts of the vest. And, most importantly, check on all the details of the pattern direction of grain lines – all lines of equity should be held perpendicular to the waist line – photo 18. Otherwise the product will not work efficiently – there will be sags or creases. Build pattern vest with stand-up collar. Begin by deepening the neckline of the back on 0, 5 cm to point 9. Then expanding the neck back and shelves are 1 cm – points 10 and 11. Through the middle of the front neckline plunges 3 see point 12. Draw a line the edge of the Board at a distance of 1.5 cm from the mid line of the front and mark the location of the buttons – photo 19. In order to create a new line of the armhole, shorten the shoulder seam line by 2.5 – 3 cm and deepen the armhole by 2 cm To build the bottom line you need to draw a horizontal line on the back shelf at a distance of 12 – 18 cm from the waist line. To build the lower corner of the shelves curve on the middle put down 3 cm and swipe a slanted line that ends with a smooth semi-circle. If you want, you can make curly triangular cutout on the back and remove the shoulder tuck the same as shown in the previous model. Guide lines pockets, and shorten the lapel dart in the top 2 cm point 13. Cut the pattern of the shelves along the lines of the Darts. Connect the lapel edge tuck – points 14 and 15. Get detail of shelf shown in photo 20. On the neckline shelves mark the point of the ledge to point 16. At this point will begin and end with stand-up collar. To the right and left halves of the collar did not go at each other, the point of the ledge is better positioned at the intersection of the neckline and the center line of the shelf. Building pattern stand-up collar. The pattern of a collar is based on the main horizontal lines – photo 21. Measure the length of the new neckline of the back and shelves from the point of the ledge 16. From the starting point to the left 1 put the resulting value minus 0.5 cm From the point 2 swipe up a vertical line 3 cm long to point 3. Divide the distance between points 1 and 2 in half – supply point 4. Then divide this distance by 3 to place point 5. Connect the dots 5 and 3 auxiliary straight line. Connect the dots 3, 5 and 4, a smooth line, as shown in photo 21. This is the line of vrachevanie the stand-up collar. Aside from points 1 and 3 up to the height of the collar, for example, 2.5 cm, Draw the desired line of inclination and curvature of the ends of collar-stand. Check the width of the strut along the entire length of the collar. Align the pattern of the collar openings of the backrest and shelves. If necessary, make the necessary adjustments. Again align all parts of patterns along the lines of Darts, relief, and side seams. Check the direction of grain lines. On the collar it is clearly on the crease line. Now you can build the pattern of the vest of any model. Good luck! Precise pattern-the basis of size 54 – master class with pictures as to build a pattern-based for size 54 - detailed master class with calculations and photo. By this method you can make patterns 50 and 60 sizes. Read dolecek properly cut out the pants and prepare for the fitting How to calculate yardage of fabric, depending on style and size, properly cut out the pants, baste the parts and prepare them for fitting. Read calamoceratidae the bodice of the dress with kupirovanii to make their own patterns the bodice of the dress with three types of draperies. Photos and technology. Read deleese article sitepornbase article? Share the link with your friends! Popular articles Section Createraster Health Section of the Women's club Contact information Lana-web. Yavorsky website 2012 >> Copyright © >> lana-web. ru - author's site about fashion, style, beauty, health. Copying site materials is allowed only if there is an indexed reference to the source