Lana-web. gillana > Simulated and sew yourself > How to cut out pants In this master class, I detail examples with photos and detailed descriptions will acquaint you with the technology of tailoring of women's pants. Sew pants or a skirt with a yoke is more complicated than the model without this detail. So I chose for the master class that is this style. A more simple model, classic trousers without belt and pockets, you will have easier to sew yourself. Part 1 – cutting, basting, preparation of pants to the fitting. When cutting of the pants is very important to follow the rule: share thread of the fabric and the equity line patterns on the front and rear halves of the pants, must be the same - photos 1 and 3. If you take two without prior measurement of the distances (top pattern and bottom), from equity in the pattern to the edge of the fabric, then the finished product will be distorted by the stepper or the outseam. And the pants look sloppy, with oblique creases. If a model with "arrows", they will, after Ironing it, stretched.Calculate fabric for pants 44-56 sizes. Measure the exact length of pants from waist to center front or side seam. Decide what shoes you'll wear them: high, mid heel or wedges. Measure the length and do a fitting in this Shoe. To the length of the pants, if the model without belt and pockets, on the belt or the facing, add 15-20 inches of the allowances: 1.5 cm – top edge, 5-6 cm ACC (like hemming pants), and 10-13 cm in width belt with the allowances. We buy from 1.2-1.3 metres of fabric with a width of 1.4-1.5 meters, if the client's growth 160-170 cm, size 44-48, depending on the style, what shoes they are wearing, from fabric. Wool, cotton and linen more sit pre-Ironing the piece of fabric in almost the maximum temperature and steam. Viscose all fabrics from synthetic fibers give less shrinkage. For models with pockets or a yoke, it is desirable to add to the length of 30-40 rather than 20 cm, depending on the width of the belt - required fabric for 6 or 8 parts of yoke, front and back. If Flirty backless – solid, as in my example, then cut 4 pieces of front and 2 for the rear half of the pants. Additional to the main length of 30-40 cm is necessary in that case, if the fabric is patterned that you want to combine in detail. Typically, when the width of the fabric 140 cm, can be cut out, without moving parts, model sizes 42 to 46, in the circumference of the hips 84, 88 and 92 cm. But for the 46 size at this width, you should place the pattern in different directions. Please make sure that the fabric allows to do it. There are fabrics that change color depending on the direction of the pile. For example, velvet and corduroy. Almost all fabrics with a NAP should be cut out in only one direction – in the direction of the pile. To determine how to do it better, attach the fabric to the shape of equity in different directions. There are exceptions. For example, corduroy is more bright and nicely perceived, if you cut out pile up. But the product, especially the pants, it is not practical – quickly wiped off the cloth. Pants size 48-50, at the hip 96 and 100 inches, cut one length with a width of 150 cm - photo 2. Pattern size 52 are arranged in different directions. If your size is 54-56, then buy fabric, calculating its length by the formula: (length of trousers + 20 in allowances) + 0,5 from the first length. In order to locate patterns, "sliding" them relative to each other. For example, the "pure" length – 100 cm + 20 = 120 + 60 = 180 cm at least But usually, at these sizes, we buy two lengths of fabric. Of course, much of it remains unused. So sew set: pants and jacket, adding to 180 cm another 60-70 cm, depending on the length of the vest. Before to find, regardless of whether you did the pattern of the pants themselves or use a ready-made, fashion magazines, be sure to check how are the front and back halves of the control points. I make the notch on both sides of each pattern on the line level of the knees and hips – 1 and 2. When cutting as well make a small notch in the fabric. When namatanai for a fitting, they must be the same. If you slip, for example, nadechka the front half of the side seam, relative to the notch on the back half of a centimeter up and stepping seam namatame correctly, without offset, at the fitting you will see an oblique crease on the front going from the top to the bottom on the line of the knees. In my example – wool pants in stripes. So to make it easier – one of the bands. But each of the 4 parts separately below equity line coincides with the bands. If the fabric is plain or with an abstract pattern, in order to avoid mistakes, do as shown in photo 3. Lay the pattern front or rear half of the pants on the fabric, folded in half, leaving room for seam allowance, 2-3 cm Measure from the equity line to the edge of the fabric or the fold at the top of the pattern. Then at the bottom. They should be the same. In my example – this distance is 26 cm since the fabric width is not standard - 145 cm, and the length of the trousers – 48, I had to shift the pattern by "raising" the pattern of the front 10 cm up relative to the pattern of the rear half – photo 4. Lay the pattern on the fabric and carefully draw around it with chalk or a thin soap, not forgetting to make a short line in places nasechek on the line of the knee and hip – Fig. 6. The standard seam – 1.5-2 cm along the side and stepping seams, 5-7 cm ACC and 1.5 cm – top – photo 5 depending on the model, take the belt or yoke. How to sew a belt or a yoke to the pants or skirt. In order to accurately make the notch on the fabric, fold each item in half, aligning the short lines – photo 7. If the bottom line is not matched, apply the pattern and check again – when cutting the cloth could move. After all the details of the pants are cut, trace the pattern along the contour of a second half of the front – photo 8 Prepare the pants to the fitting. In order that the zipper was sewn correctly and nicely, I glued the fabric (glue – thick fabric, interlining – light and summer) are part of the top of the front half trousers – photo 9. If you sew a simple model of trousers, without linings, pockets and coquettes, we can already basting them for a fitting. Pockets I normally do before fitting, so that after it immediately to stitch the side seam. And yoke on the front half, if the pattern is already proven and fits exactly. Pant lining. If the model, for example, in winter, trousers made of wool, you must do lining on the front half, then take the 2 parts at the cut halves of the front, then cut to 5-10 cm. PowerLite and prostrochite bottom padding. Then baste to the front halves of the pants along the contour, with the exception of the bottom photo 10. Attach the pattern and draw the seam lines. If sewing trousers, you will have to draw a line of arrows (equity) and prometti long stitches, combining advanced lining and base – photo 10. Then if no yoke, connect the front and rear halves of the pants along the line of the side seam, aligning the notch, and sour cream. Then also sweeps the stepper seams. When both halves of the pants are cream, combine them along the seam of the seat, starting from the point of connection of the stepper seams – photos 11 and 12.Prepare for trying on pants at the yoke. If in the model there is a yoke that only the front half of the pants, they can tack and stitch right away. If you sew this pattern the first time, it is better just to baste. Coquette better keep their shape if you glue them with glue or interlining – photo 13. The pattern I used for the first time, so initially swept along the side seams half of the pants, starting at 3 cm from the top - photo 14. And then primatal the yoke of the front – photo 15. In order to make the fitting easier to do, and the product was more accurate, prometiste lines the coquettes on the front side of photo 16. If the model yoke on the rear halves of the pants with a seam, then baste them in the same way as on the front halves, and then connect at the seam. In this model, pants back yoke solid. So first namachivajutsja the left and right halves of the pants along the seam of the seat, and then primatyvajutsja Flirty backless – photo 17. After a trained coquette, keen side seam to the top – photo 18 and 19. Baste zipper – photos 20 and 21. Fold and prometeia the bottom of the pants. All. Pants is prepared for fitting. In the second part of this master class we will learn how to properly sew. Sew a straight skirt with stica in the lining and Sew a straight skirt or a pencil skirt with slit and lining, you will be able - a detailed master-class with actions and photos, will help you calculate the amount of fabric and correctly to find. Read dolecek properly take basic measurements for the pattern the more precise and correct you remove the measurements to build a pattern-basics for dress, jacket, pants or skirt, so successful with the pattern. Basic measures and tips. Read more. Simulated skirt, pleated yoke in order to properly make the skirt pattern with pleats or slit is necessary to calculate additional fabric width. Read diepstraten pattern Raglan sleeves – detail and with pictures as to build their own pattern Raglan sleeves for dresses, blouses or jacket do you recommend this master class, with detailed descriptions and photos. 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