Madrileños adore their city for its perpetually sunny skies, majestic architecture, and quiet corners. Travelers, though, miss Madrid’s most authentic charms when they stick to the well-worn tourist track. If you skip past the crowds of Puerta del Sol and Gran Vía, you’ll find the place I call home: The village of Salesas, Madrid’s smallest neighborhood, lined with colorful facades along with a sprinkling of cafes. In the beating heart of the capital, this area marries the elegance of neighboring Salamanca with the free spirit of Chueca (to the south) and a splash of bohemian from adjacent Malasaña.

This historic district is low on tourists and high on charm, making it an unbeatable base to experience Madrid. You’ll find red-painted tapas bars and plazas bursting with local flavor typical of the Spanish capital. But layered into the quaint streets and old-fashioned standbys are a new generation of hotels, restaurants, and boutiques. Here’s the scoop on where to enjoy this beautiful barrio like a local:

Where to Shop

Nearby Calle Serrano may be home to designer labels, but Salases’ lanes are lined with one-of-a-kind shops curated by Madrid’s burgeoning creatives. Do Design, an airy concept store on Fernando VI will woo you with its curated selection of homewares (think local linens, enamelware, and Japanese stationery). ABANUC, a perfumery housed in a narrow former bookshop, gives the best facials in the city, and Mint & Rose sells their own line of structured purses and elegant sandals. (When in Spain, invest in a pair of handmade espadrilles.)

At Pez, you’ll find bespoke labels that mirror the relaxed chic of Spanish summerwear, and its home shop will leave you wanting to buy an apartment in the neighborhood. Some of the best souvenirs, though, are from Cacao Sampaka, home to the barrio’s finest chocolate truffles. With unlikely flavors like olive oil, saffron and black truffle, these sweet treats are worth sneaking into your suitcase—if they make it that far.

What to Do

Wandering Salesas, you’ll stumble into a rich patchwork quilt of cultural institutions that, though lesser known than Madrid’s most notable, are formidable nonetheless. Tucked into a pink, 18-century mansion, the Museum of Romanticism sheds light on the day-to-day life of Madrid’s high bourgeoisie during the Romantic period. It’s a fitting way to start a visit to Salesas, giving you context for the lives that unfolded in the barrio’s now repurposed mansions during their heyday. Locals love its courtyard garden, which serves as a calm, cool respite from the beautiful chaos of the neighborhood.

On the other side of the barrio, the breathtaking Church of Santa Bárbara presides over Plaza de las Salesas next to the former Salesas Reales Convent. Both landmarks were also built during the 18th-century in the neo-classical style; the latter now serves as the Tribunal Supremo, the highest court in Spain. Walk into the church and around to the Plaza Ville de París to take in one of Madrid’s most beautiful (and often-overlooked) sights before popping out at Plaza de Colón.

Down the street in Fundación MAPFRE, a permanent collection of works from Surrealist artist Joan Miró anchor rotating exhibitions that connect Spanish art to wider cultural and artistic movements. Close by, the newly opened Centro Cultural Flamenco puts on mesmerizing flamenco shows in a small theater every evening.

Where to Eat and Drink

There is no shortage of mouthwatering delights in Salesas, from lip-smacking pastries to hole-in-the-wall tapas bars. Two-Michelin-star winning D-STAgE serves guests 12-to-17 course meals of haute cuisine in its brick-exposed dining room. This hot spot fills up months in advance, but you can sometimes snag a last-minute reservation by giving the restaurant a call.

For more casual café fare, Hermanas Arce is the place to be on a Saturday. Started by two sisters with a notable food blog of the same name, their dishes refine simple cooking with understated joy. Nearby, Puntxo in Plaza de las Salesas treats guests to family recipes honed over generations; go with a crowd and order tapas for the table. To try a traditional bocadillo or Spanish sandwich, opt for a bar seat at Bocadillo de Jamón y Champán and a glass of cava.

Just down the street, La Duquesita, a pasteleria where classic glamour matches the wonder of its palmares cookies, is ideal for breakfast or a snack. The down-to-earth vegan eatery Bunny’s Cafe offers a refreshing alternative to Spanish cuisine. In a tiny space, chef Monta Rozenburga creates vegan favorites with pluck and precision worth taking to go for a picnic. For drinks, nothing beats the neighborhood camaraderie and lush setting at Pinkoco Bar or the handmade gin cocktails at Macera.

Where to Stay

In Salesas, five-star boutique hotels and designer apartments blend into the neighborhood’s facades rather than overpower them. Hotel Urso strikes a contemporary, warm note with prestige fitting of a former palace. Every aspect of the guest experience here feels authentic to the neighborhood, and its spa is a tiny and delightful retreat.

A more traditional alternative to Hotel Urso, Hotel Orfila’s decadent setting pairs with impeccable service. Although this Relais & Châteaux property is technically a couple of blocks from the neighborhood, it’s too special not to mention. Family-owned and intimate (with only 32 rooms), Orfila captures the old-world essence of Madrid with gilded furniture and a penchant for marble.

But if you prefer to dig in your heels beyond a weekend stay, the lovely designer apartments at 60 Balconies Recoletos are clean and crisp with mid-century-modern furnishings and oversized rooms. Stock one of their bright kitchens with traditional Spanish delights from Mercado de San Antón for a deeper taste of day-to-day life in the barrio.

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